Back to the 2004 disgorgement (98/99 vintage blend) which is drinking superbly right now. Lots of bright fruit, dough, vanilla cream, and some developing savouriness all coming together on a very polished, medium weight frame that's lifted by bright acids and effervescence.

An even better showing than my last bottle. Intense acidity balanced by rich fruit and sweetness on the palate, with an array of tart citrus, apple, guava, and tart strawberry fruit augmented by minerality and maturing smokiness. Incredibly precise and focused, and impeccably balanced. Great wine.

Incredible aromatics. This is so complex and compelling to smell with layers of red and dark berried fruit, savoury tree bark, coal smoke, and earthy notes, and brighter, high toned violet and eucalyptus scents all coming together into an amazing fragrance. It's medium weight on the palate yet showing incredible intensity of flavour, and beneath is a spine of grainy tannin and bright acidity that keeps the ripe fruit in check.

The fruit here is more restrained and understated than in the 1998 poured alongside. This is much more about its exotic, high toned eucalyptus, mint, herbal, and other savoury elements with the fruit more in the background, and it's again an incredibly compelling wine. Time and air bring out more low toned earthy and faintly cedary notes, and the palate shows tremendous finesse and balance.

A step up in power and intensity from the Shiraz Malbec blends. This is richer and more intense on the palate, showing those classic Wendouree flavours of eucalyptus, smoke, and green herbal and minty notes around a core of ripe red and dark fruited flavours, but there's also a note of VA on the nose here. This is just starting to hit its drinking window - it's not particularly tannic in contrast to the other Wendourees at the table, and has a more gentle palate presence (albeit after an hour in the decanter).

Jawdropping. This is absolutely spectacular with a perfumed, intoxicating fragrance and a palate presence that combines intensity and depth with remarkable finesse. There is amazing complexity here - layers of dark berried fruit, coal smoke, tree bark, and the signature Wendouree eucalyptus/mintiness, and with air more savoury meaty and briny notes emerge. There's remarkable depth and breadth on the palate, and a finish that seems to keep unfolding for minutes. It's still incredibly young with plenty of acid and tannic structure beneath the fruit that only slightly softens with a decant, but this is already an incredible experience.

From half bottle. Surprisingly dark gold in colour, and also more advanced than I'd expect an SGN to be. It's packed with ripe tropical fruit, orange marmalade, and botrytised honey and spicy notes, though there's also a savoury, burnished tinge to the fruit that makes it feel a bit more mature. Immensely sweet with palate-staining intensity, but also very well balanced with enough acidity to match the sweetness.