Modern label but pre-ID or name. Really poised and fresh on the nose with lovely, slightly honeyed aromas indicating some bottle age. So poised and fresh, really lovely line. I wonder if this is 02 base. Takes on a smokies character with air. Complex and really good. ****1/2

Fresh. Nicely wet wool, minerally nose with good slightly chalky definition. Some density here. Very harmonious. Still young, but a hint of mid-palate complexity that needs a bit longer to open up. ****

Very full old gold to almost a copper-hued orange. Gorgeous nose of apricot kernels and furniture varnish. Bright and lovely on the palate with more apricot and a touch of almond blossom. Just dips a bit texturally on the finish with the interest being front-loaded, but that's being picky. Super. ****1/2

Shame, there's a nice wine underneath, but it's corked.

Lovely bright ruby to mid garnet. Maturing Pinot nose with that underlying sucrosity. Mellow red fruit in a relatively Sony and sweet-fruited attack and a mellow sous-bois mid-palate. No great complexity, but vital and a great match with the grouse. A wine that gives more pleasure than its absolute quality level. ***1/2

Rich, dense, concentrated and hugely long. It's all here, until one tastes the Bota 47 alongside and then the previously painful intensity of the 48 seems more manageable. Fascinating and a super match with Medlar's Old Gouda. ****

Everything dialed up to eleven. It's concentrated, intense, painfully so. So complex and nuance and it keeps going. One for sipping and contemplating, perhaps garnering respect rather than love. 80 years old, and monumental. *****