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Corsica Dreaming in San Diego

Starlite Restaurant, San Diego, CA

Tasted October 5, 2017 by Cote d'Or with 345 views

Introduction

While in San Diego for work, I was fortunate to catch up with Marty Steinley, who was gracious enough to invite me to join him and his tasting group for a virtual tour of Corsican terroir. They are a fun, wine-savvy group of guys who appreciate what is in the bottle more than what is on the label. We tasted through some current releases from Kermit Lynch's portfolio of Corsican whites and reds at the Starlite restaurant, an ideal venue that provided excellent facilities, fantastic food and charming service.

Flight 1 - Corsican Whites (5 notes)

1) 2016 Clos Canarelli Corse Figari
2) 2016 Abbatucci Ajaccio "Faustine" Vieilles Vignes
3) 2015 Abbatucci Vin de France "Diplomate d'Empire"
4) 2016 Domaine E Croce (Yves Leccia) Patrimonio
5) 2015 Antoine Arena Patrimonio "Carco"

White
2016 Clos Canarelli Corse Figari Blanc France, Corsica, Corse Figari
100% vermentinu, 19 year old vines, aged in foudre an older barrels
-translucent super pale light gold-green
-markedly expressive floral fresh sweet white fruits
-med acidity gives freshness on the lighter weight frame, white fruits with a mineral spine
-aromatic, pretty and fresh, very nice, the most light-hearted of the flight
White
2016 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Faustine Blanc Vieilles Vignes France, Corsica, Vin de France
100% vermentinu, 40 year old vines, stainless steel tanks
-translucent nearly colorless pale yellow
-bright mostly floral with a bit of white fruits
-med- acidity, soft and almost unctuous texture, noticeable bitter streak intertwined with some white fruits and minerality
-notably soft texture and more restrained
White
2015 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Cuvée Collection Il Cavaliere Diplomate d'Empire France, Corsica
37% Vermentinu, 20% Rossola Bianca, 19% Biancu Gentile, 14% Genovese, 10% Brustiano; vinified in tank, aged in older demi-muid
-translucent nearly colorless
-elegant delicate restrained white flowers and orchard fruit, evolves with new aromas that expand over 3 hrs
-med/med- acidity is just enough to provide some cut, med weight, soft round and long, complexity builds over 3 hrs
-beguiling, elegant, beautiful, complete; seems to have some aging potential, stylistically a bit reminiscent of a Raveneau Chablis
White
2016 Domaine d'E Croce (Yves Leccia) Patrimonio Blanc France, Corsica, Patrimonio
100% vermentinu, 20-50 year old vines, all stainless
-translucent pale yellow
-moderately expressive pretty floral seawater wet stone
-med acidity, middle weight fresh sweet ripe white fruits with saline minerality and faint bitterness, finishes dry with good length
-vibrant, excellent, the most minerality of the flight
White
2015 Antoine Arena Patrimonio Carco Blanc France, Corsica, Patrimonio
100% vermentinu, 30 year old vines, aged on fine lees in stainless
-translucent light gold
-slightly smoky sweet white fruits
-med- acidity, soft mouthfeel, low profile sweet white fruits
-the darkest and most serious/restrained wine of the flight, seems to have a significant potential to unfurl

Flight 2 - Corsican Reds (5 notes)

1) 2015 Clos Canarelli Corse Figari rouge
2) 2014 Domaine Maestracci "E Prove"
3) 2014 Domaine E Croce (Yves Leccia) Patrimonio
4) 2014 Antoine-Marie Arena Patrimonio "Carco"
5) 2015 Abbatucci Vin de France "Ministre Impérial"

Red
2015 Clos Canarelli Corse Figari Rouge France, Corsica, Corse Figari
80% niellucciu, 15% syrah, 5% sciaccarellu; generally 100% destemmed, aged in foudre
-vibrant red-purple
-restrained red fruits
-med/med- acidity, med weight and concentration, racy dark red fruits fresh minerality and a bitter streak that carries through to the med+ tannins on the finish
-quite nice if a bit rustic
Red
2014 Domaine Maestracci Vin de Corse Calvi E Prove France, Corsica, Vin de Corse Calvi
35% Niellucciu, 35% Grenache, 15% Sciacarellu, 15% Syrah; 25-40 year old vines
-opaque dark red
-restrained red fruit vinyl component
-med acidity, med weight, bright chalky red fruit sweet tarts
-exuberant, very nice now and some upside
2 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
2014 Domaine d'E Croce (Yves Leccia) Patrimonio E Croce France, Corsica, Patrimonio
90% niellucciu, 10% grenache; 20-40 year old vines, 100% destemmed
-nearly opaque dark red purple
-restrained minerally dark fruit
-med acidity, middle weight lower profile generous dark fruit
-serious and elegant darker fruited, very good now though probably benefits from a few more years
Red
2014 Antoine-Marie Arena Patrimonio Carco France, Corsica, Patrimonio
100% niellucciu, 30 year old vines, aged in large old barrels
-med dark red
-restrained cherry mineral
-med acidity, med weight mineraly-driven lean focused dark red fruit, med+ chalky tannins
-serious focused highly mineral, excellent now and should get better over next several years
Red
2015 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Cuvée Collection "Ministre Imperial" France, Corsica, Vin de France
22% Sciacarellu, 18% Niellucciu, 15% Carcajolu-Neru, 15% Montaneccia, 12% Morescono, 10% Morescola, 8% Aleatico; 50-55 year old vines, aged in old demi-muids
-nearly opaque dark red
-minimally expressive dark red fruit slight vinyl component
-med acidity, med weight red fruit with slowly evolving mineral and herbal components emerging after 2 hrs
-too young to yield much at this stage but has a lot of potential

Closing

The wines all showed very well. It was fascinating to see the differences in the whites, which were evident despite nearly all of them being made entirely from vermentinu. The Abbatucci special cuvées were, well, special. They unfurled with extended air and showed complexities and subtleties not present in the others, no doubt because of the field blend of native varieties.

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