Served in large Burgundy glasses - and for a reason. Just what you would expect, and certainly hope for from Grande Sendree 2008: the richness, spice and vinosity of great Pinot Noir from the Côte des Bar, married to the freshness and mineral energy of the vintage. Expressive nose, creamy texture, lovely autolytic complexity, intense flavours, excellent length. Outstanding. Drink now - 2028. Worked a treat with smoked trout from the Pyrenees (Maison Barthouil).

Half bottle. Late harvest Aligoté - I did not even know it existed! It is delicately sweet, but it retains its essential varietal character, fresh and juicy, pure and clean, green apple finish.

A wonderfully refined style from the lighter, sandier soils of La Justice, so silky and elegant it could almost be from Chambolle, fragrant nose of roses and crushed red berries, juicy and crunchy, relaxed and flowing palate, so lifted and aromatic but with a cool mineral core, mild tannins, seamless and long. Quite amazing and very delicious. Right up my street.

A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre, aged for six years in large oak vats. Intense and powerful (14.5%), with the strong savoury, smoky, balsamic quality which comes with long ageing in wood (think Vega Sicilia), powerful and a bit dusty, more claret than Rhône, black ink, deep and spicy, black fruit, very structured with firm but ripe tannins, satiny texture, very good resonance and length. Unique style. Idiosyncratic, but the quality is undeniable.

Powerful and fresh, garrigue and fresh cherries, light and lifted style, bright acidity and mild skin tannins, good length.

Cinsault and 25% alcohol. Sweet fruit, yeasty richness, strawberries and cherries, juicy and fresh, spicy and juicy, long and aromatic finish.