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1989 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Cinghiale, Baltimore
Tasted September 14, 2018 by cct with 243 views
Introduction
This was an evening with close friends who share a passion for nebbiolo. Tom had offered up the theme of '89 and mentioned the words Collina Rionda. From there it was very easy to say yes and to make the trip out east. It was also a celebration of health and to steal a term from TM, our good fortune. This was a night of staggeringly good wines and wonderful company. The group included Henry with a cameo appearance by his better half Marlene, Ian, Jamie, Kevin, Kim, Steve, Tom, and me. All nebbiolo wines were double decanted in the morning. Henry worked with the restaurant to create a Piemontese menu that would act as a supporting actor to the wines, which deserved center stage this night. So, without further banter, here we go.
Flight 1 - Whites (3 notes)
With Fritto Misto and later Carne Cruda
White
2012 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
93 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Paired with the 1999.
Very young and pretty closed at first. At first pretty reductive on the nose, then mineral, savory, lemon and herbal on the nose. It opens with air but still lI thin tonight is just a glimpse into the future. An interesting wine of contrasts. Dense and powerful, with citrus pith, gripping tannins, and tension, yet with great lift and freshness with chewy tannins. Structured and impressive, and I suspect has a very bright future. Outstanding. 93+
Paired with the 1999.
Very young and pretty closed at first. At first pretty reductive on the nose, then mineral, savory, lemon and herbal on the nose. It opens with air but still lI thin tonight is just a glimpse into the future. An interesting wine of contrasts. Dense and powerful, with citrus pith, gripping tannins, and tension, yet with great lift and freshness with chewy tannins. Structured and impressive, and I suspect has a very bright future. Outstanding. 93+
White
1999 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
93 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Poured alongside the 2012
Mature and like al looking glass into the future of the '12. Mature fruit, but not tiring. Great cut, tension and grip still. Tannic, and almost chewy on the back end with citrus pith, bitterness that I liked. More savory and herbal than fruit driven at this point, and while I doubt it will improve, I think this is in no fear of imminent decline. At peak and no reason to hold. I think the '12 is a better wine but this wine shows in a better stage of evolution.
Poured alongside the 2012
Mature and like al looking glass into the future of the '12. Mature fruit, but not tiring. Great cut, tension and grip still. Tannic, and almost chewy on the back end with citrus pith, bitterness that I liked. More savory and herbal than fruit driven at this point, and while I doubt it will improve, I think this is in no fear of imminent decline. At peak and no reason to hold. I think the '12 is a better wine but this wine shows in a better stage of evolution.
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White
2014 Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres
95 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
A bird of another feather tonight. Some matchstick to start that blew off with some air. An intoxicating, beautiful nose. Purity and grace, themes that seemed to recur in my comments while drinking this wine. A little nutty, lemon curd, some subtle wood and subtle florals on the nose. Graceful and beautiful pure nose. On the palate, clean and fresh, like drinking mineral water. More lemon curd, some nuttiness, and beautiful inner mouth perfume. This is cohesive, beautifully balanced wine that seems to carry itself with a sense of effortlessness. Grace and purity, depth without heaviness. It's really mid weight at most, but has hidden power while lithe and graceful. Precise and with a jewel like transparency/precision. Mouthwatering. A wonderful wine that I wish I could drink more often. Terrific. 95
A bird of another feather tonight. Some matchstick to start that blew off with some air. An intoxicating, beautiful nose. Purity and grace, themes that seemed to recur in my comments while drinking this wine. A little nutty, lemon curd, some subtle wood and subtle florals on the nose. Graceful and beautiful pure nose. On the palate, clean and fresh, like drinking mineral water. More lemon curd, some nuttiness, and beautiful inner mouth perfume. This is cohesive, beautifully balanced wine that seems to carry itself with a sense of effortlessness. Grace and purity, depth without heaviness. It's really mid weight at most, but has hidden power while lithe and graceful. Precise and with a jewel like transparency/precision. Mouthwatering. A wonderful wine that I wish I could drink more often. Terrific. 95
Flight 2 - Nebbiolo Flight #1 (4 notes)
With Tajarin and Guinea Fowl Ragout
Red
1989 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Brunate
98 points
'89 nebbiolo at Cinghiale
An intoxicating perfume that seems to fill not just the nose but your lungs as well. Cherry fruit, roses, balsamic notes, porcini, cherry Luden's in the best way possible. On the palate, sap and density without heaviness. Harmony, power and grace. To throw in in another overused term, iron fist in a velvet glove. This has beautiful inner mouth perfume, sap and depth. Terrific balance and tension. Towering yet graceful. In spite of al the technical beauty, this is and emotional wine, that just sings to you. Drinking fantastically well, and has a future lifespan to measure in decades. Firm. Wonderful wine.
An intoxicating perfume that seems to fill not just the nose but your lungs as well. Cherry fruit, roses, balsamic notes, porcini, cherry Luden's in the best way possible. On the palate, sap and density without heaviness. Harmony, power and grace. To throw in in another overused term, iron fist in a velvet glove. This has beautiful inner mouth perfume, sap and depth. Terrific balance and tension. Towering yet graceful. In spite of al the technical beauty, this is and emotional wine, that just sings to you. Drinking fantastically well, and has a future lifespan to measure in decades. Firm. Wonderful wine.
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Comments (1)
Red
1989 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo
90 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Much more savory than the Rinaldi. Bouillon, tar, leather, decaying leaves, some iron, a little soy that blew off, and dried rose petals. Midweighted on the palate and still are savory than fruit Driven. More beef broth, porcini, and just with a touch of balsam on the back. Where it really lifted its expression was with some of the tajarin. I like this more than others, and this is a wine that really complimented the food. Drink up now or a couple years ago if you have them.
Much more savory than the Rinaldi. Bouillon, tar, leather, decaying leaves, some iron, a little soy that blew off, and dried rose petals. Midweighted on the palate and still are savory than fruit Driven. More beef broth, porcini, and just with a touch of balsam on the back. Where it really lifted its expression was with some of the tajarin. I like this more than others, and this is a wine that really complimented the food. Drink up now or a couple years ago if you have them.
Red
1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
91 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Dark fruited nebbiolo. Tar, dark fruit, balsam, and some chocolate on the nose. On the palate, dense and meaty, more savory than fruit driven with more tar and dark fruit in the background. A broader stroked wine that while structured and dense, lacks clarity and lift, and is more of a direct impact wine than a wine of nuance. This is personal preference and others will like it more I suspect.
Dark fruited nebbiolo. Tar, dark fruit, balsam, and some chocolate on the nose. On the palate, dense and meaty, more savory than fruit driven with more tar and dark fruit in the background. A broader stroked wine that while structured and dense, lacks clarity and lift, and is more of a direct impact wine than a wine of nuance. This is personal preference and others will like it more I suspect.
Red
1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Bricotto Bussia
93 points
'89 nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Again dark profiled nebbiolo. Tar, dark fruits, roses, savory/herbal notes, iron, and olive. Better texture and with more focus and clarity that the Ginestra. A good sense of sap, minerality and focus. Drinking at peak.
Again dark profiled nebbiolo. Tar, dark fruits, roses, savory/herbal notes, iron, and olive. Better texture and with more focus and clarity that the Ginestra. A good sense of sap, minerality and focus. Drinking at peak.
Flight 3 - Nebbiolo Flight #2 a.k.a. The best flight of wines I will ever drink (4 notes)
With mushroom and roasted chicken agnolotti
Red
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
100 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
This was one of my bucket list wines, and this was the night to get to see it. Often this ends up in disappointment as my expectations would have been hard to have been higher.
Well, it takes at most a couple seconds to realize you are in the presence of perfection. A lung filing nose. hugely lifted and fresh, weightless yet profoundly deep nose. Roses, cherry, tar, truffle, amazing perfume. The perfume just continues onto the palate. Florals, balsam, truffle, Serralunga fruit power but with a graceful touch. This not only has everything, but everything in perfect harmony. This is not the broadest or most powerful wine of the night, but the most complete, and deepest. Sap, density without weight, an effortlessly perfect wine that words cannot adequately convey. Incredibly long. I have not had a better wine in my life. Others at the table said it. This is an emotional wine. Thank you TM.
This was one of my bucket list wines, and this was the night to get to see it. Often this ends up in disappointment as my expectations would have been hard to have been higher.
Well, it takes at most a couple seconds to realize you are in the presence of perfection. A lung filing nose. hugely lifted and fresh, weightless yet profoundly deep nose. Roses, cherry, tar, truffle, amazing perfume. The perfume just continues onto the palate. Florals, balsam, truffle, Serralunga fruit power but with a graceful touch. This not only has everything, but everything in perfect harmony. This is not the broadest or most powerful wine of the night, but the most complete, and deepest. Sap, density without weight, an effortlessly perfect wine that words cannot adequately convey. Incredibly long. I have not had a better wine in my life. Others at the table said it. This is an emotional wine. Thank you TM.
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Comment
Red
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba
97 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
The most savory of the flight. Bouillon, tar, iron, some olive, and darker nebbiolo fruit. Wonderful texture and sap. It's denser and more structured than the other three wines in the flight, but also and I am picking nits and all in relative note to the wine drunk alongside it, it was the broadest and most direct of the 4 wines. Great balance, and with a great mix of savory and soil over fruit. Finishes long with balsamic notes. Terrific wine.
The most savory of the flight. Bouillon, tar, iron, some olive, and darker nebbiolo fruit. Wonderful texture and sap. It's denser and more structured than the other three wines in the flight, but also and I am picking nits and all in relative note to the wine drunk alongside it, it was the broadest and most direct of the 4 wines. Great balance, and with a great mix of savory and soil over fruit. Finishes long with balsamic notes. Terrific wine.
Red
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto
97 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Beautiful perfume. Dried roses, tar, cherry fruit, olive and a little ferrous on the nose. Wonderful sap, with tension and lift. This, the Rionda and the Santo Stefano all have the sweetness and suppleness of fruit that Giacosa seems to have mastered. It is extracted, yet very light on its feet. Harmonious, graceful and beautiful balanced. It is easy as mineral water to drink. Wonderful balance. I love Villero in general, and this is another wine that let's me know why. Power and grace, wonderful depth but no heaviness. A harmonious wine drinking at peak
Beautiful perfume. Dried roses, tar, cherry fruit, olive and a little ferrous on the nose. Wonderful sap, with tension and lift. This, the Rionda and the Santo Stefano all have the sweetness and suppleness of fruit that Giacosa seems to have mastered. It is extracted, yet very light on its feet. Harmonious, graceful and beautiful balanced. It is easy as mineral water to drink. Wonderful balance. I love Villero in general, and this is another wine that let's me know why. Power and grace, wonderful depth but no heaviness. A harmonious wine drinking at peak
Red
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano
99 points
'89 nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Roses and tar on the nose. A touch of caramel that blew off. Terrific texture. A profoundly deep nose and palate. Rich yet with great tension and balance. Some Luden's cough drop cherry balsamic notes fill your nose and then your whole palate when you drink it. Expansive yet graceful, with terror sap and Giacosa sweet fruit. This wine just flows everywhere filling the space with its perfume. Over time it opens up more, with roses, balsamic, note. Incredible wine, and on any other day I would call it perfect, but there was a glass next to it that was better. Another reason why points can't convey the wine. Fantastic wine and a privilege to drink.
Roses and tar on the nose. A touch of caramel that blew off. Terrific texture. A profoundly deep nose and palate. Rich yet with great tension and balance. Some Luden's cough drop cherry balsamic notes fill your nose and then your whole palate when you drink it. Expansive yet graceful, with terror sap and Giacosa sweet fruit. This wine just flows everywhere filling the space with its perfume. Over time it opens up more, with roses, balsamic, note. Incredible wine, and on any other day I would call it perfect, but there was a glass next to it that was better. Another reason why points can't convey the wine. Fantastic wine and a privilege to drink.
Flight 4 - Nebbiolo Flight #3 (3 notes)
With braised beef short rib, creamy polenta, and baby carrots
Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
96 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Deep and darker fruited. Great perfume. Roses, tar, some ferrous notes. Rich and dense yet with sap and great lift. A structured, powerful wine, full bodied and carrying it very well. It is more muscular than most of the wines tonight, yet maintains harmony. Finishes long and dark with more ferrous, balsamic and savory on the back end. Impressive and still somewhat youthful.
Deep and darker fruited. Great perfume. Roses, tar, some ferrous notes. Rich and dense yet with sap and great lift. A structured, powerful wine, full bodied and carrying it very well. It is more muscular than most of the wines tonight, yet maintains harmony. Finishes long and dark with more ferrous, balsamic and savory on the back end. Impressive and still somewhat youthful.
Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello
92 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
Two bottles were opened on accident instead of a Cicala and Colonello.
One of the bottles was not sound, so my TN is on the better bottle. One of them was off.
Dense and darker fruited. Savory and meaty, soil driven nebbiolo. Power and more forward. Tar, beef broth, porcini,, iron, and dark nebbiolo fruit on the palate. Savory and structured, with good acidity and lift, but lacking the nuance of some of the other bottles tonight. Still outstanding.
Two bottles were opened on accident instead of a Cicala and Colonello.
One of the bottles was not sound, so my TN is on the better bottle. One of them was off.
Dense and darker fruited. Savory and meaty, soil driven nebbiolo. Power and more forward. Tar, beef broth, porcini,, iron, and dark nebbiolo fruit on the palate. Savory and structured, with good acidity and lift, but lacking the nuance of some of the other bottles tonight. Still outstanding.
Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana
94 points
'89 Nebbiolo at Cinghiale
This was surprise on the upside. Tar and roses on the nose, with some saline, olive notes. Great mid to fun weighted texture with lift and freshness. the least structured wines of this flight, but aside from the Granbussia, the most harmonious. Some decaying leaves, balsam, and mature notes on the back end. Graceful and cohesive and the most open of the '89 Aldo Conterno wines tonight.
This was surprise on the upside. Tar and roses on the nose, with some saline, olive notes. Great mid to fun weighted texture with lift and freshness. the least structured wines of this flight, but aside from the Granbussia, the most harmonious. Some decaying leaves, balsam, and mature notes on the back end. Graceful and cohesive and the most open of the '89 Aldo Conterno wines tonight.
Closing
This was a tremendous evening, where most any of these wines could have been the wine of the night or wine of the year in other circumstances. That said, there was great joy and value in tasting and drinking these wines during a slow meal in context with each other, and drinking them with the people involved. I found it very instructive and even more enjoyable. I have not had a better wine than the '89 Collina Rionda and it was a bucket list wine for me. It exceeded my high expectations. I doubt I will ever enjoy a flight of wines as much as the Giacosa flight this night.
I thank TM for setting it up and for his unparalleled generosity, and more importantly, friendship. Thanks to Henry for doing the legwork at the restaurant. Thanks to everyone else who shared their wines and the experience. I cannot think of an evening I have had better wine in my life, and I doubt that will change any time soon. These wines were further substantiation that '89 is a monumental vintage in the Langhe. I am humbled to have been part of this evening and could not think of people with whom I would rather have shared it.
Thanks for reading