Gantenbein vertical 2001-16
Restaurant Musigny, Zurich
Tasted February 8, 2019 by sirpat00 with 260 views
Introduction
My first Gantenbein vertical at Restaurant Musigny (the host participated) in Zurich. All 16 vintages since 2001 were poured. What was remarkable, and everybody agreed, was the consistency except 2002 which unfortunately proved a bad bottle (an auction bottle, unsurprisingly). I personally was most impressed by the stellar 2013 which convinced with concentration and depth. Other outstanding vintages were 2001, 2004 and 2015 with the 2010 considered the WOTN by others around the table (93PR). Low-lights in my view (only relatively speaking!) were 2003 and 2008 although the latter was not rated by some and considered flawed. Interestingly, the younger the vintage the more typical the earthy character showed – which as we were explained was a trait that become more dominant over time as the Gantenbeins who took over this terrific winery in the 90ies. We also learned how Martha Gantenbein spends weeks in the field during harvest, hand-picking only the right grapes so that no optical sorting is required before vilification.
My average score ended up at 92.4 (or 92.6 ex 2008) which compares to 93.3 and 93.4 as an average from other participants (Collector1855, Nostrabacchus) - Further prove of the consistency of this producer!
Lastly, obviously, super big Thanks to the initiator and host, great friend and wine whisperer Cailles who went through the trouble of sourcing all the vintages, finding a location and inviting the right people!
Flight 1 - 2001-04 (4 notes)
Red
2001 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Cherry fruit and fresh herbs. Somewhat earthy but hardly showing the age. Comes across well-structured with still sufficient freshness. Probably many more years of aging potential left.
Red
2002 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
This was unfortunately cooked beef broth and clearly has had it. No comparison to 2001 or 2003 which stood next beside hence probably just a bad bottle (was bought in auction).
Red
2003 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Good balance between fruit and earthy notes, but with less vigour than other vintages. Crispy freshness. A tad reductive I found (was there some CO2?). Lighter texture than other vintages.
Red
2004 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Great breadth of aromatics with a precise red cherry fruit and a greenish sting, but in no way disturbing rather adding some herbal complexity. Great tannic structure providing for a full body. A great showing and one of my favourites in the 2001-16 vertical.
Flight 2 - 2005-08 (4 notes)
Red
2005 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Fruit profile shows cranberry in addition to cherry. A bit more meaty than other neighbouring vintages. Round, full and dense on the palate. Tangible but fine tannins.
Red
2007 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Rather light red fruit but also some ash which in combination makes for an appealing profile. A slight acidity overhang on the palate.
Red
2006 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
A tad reductive. Rather fruit-centred profile with limited secondary and tertiary aromas despite a decade of bottle age. A full mouthfeel and good structure – but came across simpler than other vintages.
Red
2008 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Early signs of oxidation overshadowed the underlying fruit and earthy notes. Others around the table have mentioned that after a while the juice in the glass staged a comeback, shaking off the ox. But I couldn't corroborate.
Flight 3 - 2009-12 (4 notes)
Red
2009 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Fruit forward, but also discernible tea herbs and earthy aromas. Light, fresh structure but with some excess acidity at this stage.
Red
2010 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Great intense fruit, some signature earthy notes but not too much. Round palate even if a bit bitter which was the only time along with the 2012 I found this in the 2001-16 vertical, hence not the WOTN for me unlike for others.
Red
2011 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Less leathery and earthy than others and hence shows reduced complexity. Fresh and light on the palate which makes for great drinking even though acidity levels are somewhat elevated within the mix.
Red
2012 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Great earthy notes, precise fruit and a greenish, herbal touch. As with the 2010 some traces of bitter on the palate.
Flight 4 - 2013 Gantenbein vs Donatsch (2 notes)
Red
2013 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
The highlight in the 2001-16 vertical. Great depth with an earthy core and cool minerality around the cherry fruit. Medium+ acidity but kept in check by the fruit and tannins in what is a truly impressive palate. This vintage of the century exceeds the rest of the pack in terms of complexity and dwarfing the 2013 Donatsch Unique, in my view. This offers great future aging potential. Damn you lucky bastard who owns this!
Red
2013 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Malans
This was supposed to be a Swiss pinot legend but maybe my expectations were too high. Nose of raspberry syrup and some cherry. Palate reminiscent of grape juice. In my view this paled in comparison to the 2013 Gantenbein we had next to it.
Flight 5 - 2014-16 (3 notes)
Red
2015 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Great signature earthiness with a remarkable follow-through on the palate where you'll also find invigorating freshness. No imbalance what so ever.
Red
2016 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
A nice cherry type of fruit but more restrained earth and soil flavours. Acidity quite wild at this young stage. My nose is tired now this being Ganteinbein number 16 in the 2001-16 vertical.
Red
2014 Gantenbein Pinot Noir
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
This is a vintage I've tasted several times before and has so far never disappointed me. Acidity levels toppish, but great intensity and tension on the palate.
© 2003-24 CellarTracker! LLC.
