118007. Not the greatest GC, but a phenomenally delicious and easy-drinking one. It's lighter in style; quite expressive with the fruit and less so on the structure. Sweet golden apples dominate the fruit profile, and while there are some of the classic nutty elements hidden under the exuberant fruit, this is largely dominated by the accessible fruit character. I don't think there's enough structure here for this edition to be long-lived (cf. the massive 164eme), but for drinking now, this is a splendid wine.

118014. I really wanted to like this much more, and my previous note may have been a slight reflection of that, but I will have to admit that I really did expect more out of this wine. Of the four wines poured, it's sadly my least favourite. Next to the 2004, the difference in density and power is so stark. This just feels dumb and a little dilute. There are some mild stone fruit flavours, as well as a little bit of nuttiness on the finish, but overall the complexity and depth are lacking. As I wrote last night, I still have more faith in Krug than I do my own palate, so here's hoping that age improves this wine.

316034. This bottle was outstanding -- relatively speaking, the raw acid and white fruit has been covered up by some developing oxidative notes. This is a richly textured and powerful champagne, where the intense acidity is held in check by a surprisingly broad texture. This is still relatively citric, probably as a result of the very strong chardonnay this vintage. Brilliant stuff; I am thinking the play may well be to keep loading up on the 2004.

414082. Probably my favourite bottle of the evening (again). This is Jungian archetypal Krug. Rich and concentrated, with a balance of oxidative nutty tones and plenty of bright acidity-driven freshness. It's really a complete package. These older GCs are really some of the best champagnes out there (I'm thinking of an older 2005 disgorgement that I drank recently, too).