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Medlar dinner, November 2019

Medlar, Chelsea

Tasted November 26, 2019 by NickA with 133 views

Introduction

Casual BYO arranged with the help of A&B Vintners

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2000 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
94 points
Quickly evident that this bottle was in a really good place: inviting but no lack of acidity or structure; well poised between fruit and tertiary notes; mousse is persistent but not insistent. Could easily have polished off several glasses.

Flight 2 - Volcanic Whites (2 notes)

White onion veloute with crisp boneless chicken wings, autumn black truffle and aged Comte gougeres

White
2006 Llanos Negros La Palma Los Tabaqueros Spain, Canary Islands, La Palma
94 points
Had no idea what to expect from this, especially once I saw how dark it was (the brown side of amber). Nose is aromatic, heady and suggests sweetness, but palate is bone dry and long. Impossible to describe adequately, especially without taking contemporaneous notes! Has elements of mature Alsatian Riesling or PG, or very old Condrieu. Great food wine.
White
2015 Barone di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore Villagrande Italy, Sicily, Etna Bianco Superiore
90 points
Slightly overshadowed by its flight-mate, but a great wine in its own right - gorgeous sunny nose of sweet blossom, lovely freshness and drive on the palate.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Red Burgs (2 notes)

Duck egg tart with red wine sauce, turnip puree, lardons and sauteed duck heart

Red
2011 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
94 points
Really stylish and sleek, without seeming in any way 'polished' or overworked. Very pretty red-fruited nose, with strawberry to the fore. Weightless on the palate, with good depth of flavour and certainly ready to drink. Although impressive, I felt this was slightly too well-behaved to be truly great rather than very good.
Red
2012 Henri Jouan Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
91 points
Surprising to see quite a bit of sediment in a 2012 already, but happily that went along with the tannins already being in a good spot and, whilst there is surely upside, it didn't feel like this bottle had been opened before it was ready. Nice balance of red fruit and some gameyness, decent acidic backbone, classic and drinking nicely.

Flight 4 - NW Italian Reds (2 notes)

Roast Anjou pigeon with confit leg, crepes parmentier, cauliflower puree, salsa verde and almonds

Red
2001 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella
91 points
Very typical Nebbiolo nose, with dried flowers and a hint of tar. Soft and mature on the palate. More easy and fun than its origins and maturity might suggest, and went well with a pigeon dish, but maybe even better a couple of years ago when it would've had more structure?
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Cascina Grasso Calos Vino da Tavola Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
89 points
This wine actually doesn't have a vintage on the bottle but 2016 is plausible given it feels resolved but still quite purple and primary.

Attractive crunchy fruit, quaffable and a nice match for rich food given its acidity - it's cut from the same cloth as Dolcetto, say, but this is made from an unknown grape variety (Gamba di Pernice) and only 610 bottles are produced each year!

Flight 5 - Dessert (1 note)

Parkin with roast pineapple, lime zest and honey and ginger ice cream

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux, Début Pressée Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
97 points
Wow! What a bottle. Made from the first cut of running must ("début pressée"), this gorgeous deep orange mahogany wine created a real impression.

Nose is pleasant rather than outstanding, but the experience on the palate is spot-on, with a perfect balance of sweet fruits, gingery spice and focused acidic drive. It's around 10% alcohol and feels so effortless that it lacks any sense of heat or being cloying, but it's also sufficiently sweet and full-bodied to stand up to a proper dessert rather than just something fruity. I have the impression that it will age slowly and live on indefinitely.

Closing

Everything showed really well, and the food was good too!

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