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Giovanni Manetti on Fontodi

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Tasted September 17, 2020 by NickA with 169 views

Introduction

Looking forward to trying the famed 2016 big guns and the 2017s Chianti Classicos.

Flight 1 - Chianti Classico (2 notes)

Red
2017 Fontodi Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
91 points
A higher, cooler site than those found in Fontodi's home area, with sandstone soil giving elegance and fine tannins. Spicy, vinous nose, with oregano. Chocolate, raspberries and cherries on the palate, which has lovely floral acidity on the finish. Tannins overt at first but completely integrate after only a little air - ready to drink already.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Fontodi Chianti Classico Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
90 points
Schisty, limestoney soil, giving structure and acidity. Darker colour and softer, richer, less expressive nose than the Lamole. A bit leathery and mentholated. Great depth of dark frutti di bosco-accented fruit. So mouthwatering. Tannins are pretty 'rocky' at the moment - you can enjoy it now, but it benefits a lot from food (in my case, garlic bruschetta).
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)

Flight 2 - Gran Selezione - Super Tuscan (3 notes)

Red
2016 Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
93 points
A gorgeous deep garnet colour. Fresh, mentholated nose. Floral and herbal. Really massive and concentrated, and stony, with lift towards the end and a spicy finish. Tannins coat the whole mouth, but are so stylish that you almost don't notice them. Delicious now but loads of potential.
Giovanni Manetti notes that Sorbo can age for decades - the 1990 is drinking well now, for example.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
96 points
Opaque purple. So much concentration, and a creamy feel, but so light on its feet. Lavender and herbs. Sweet and bitter. I wanted not to be impressed by this, given I can't afford it (having been a buyer of prior vintages), but I failed.
3 people found this helpful Comments (5)
Red
2010 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
92 points
A similar vintage to 2016, says GM - firm structure and lots of acidity. Still pretty dark, but obvious maturity on the nose - that same mentholated lift, but with more game and leather. Similar feeling on the palate, although with increased complexity - there's liquorice, chocolate, cherries, beef stock and then a crashing wave of juicy fruit across the finish. GM thinks this needs another couple of years to come into harmony and balance. Delicious wine, but you can tell the 2016 has an 'x' factor.
5 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Vin Santo (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Fontodi Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
90 points
Sangiovese and Malvasia. Chestnut colour. Really viscous. Raisiny on the palate without being cloying or acrid. Tasty but a little bit sweet and simple - perfect for its traditional role of providing a little nip to welcome visitors but not one to have with food.

Closing

Still haven't tried a Fontodi I didn't like - the wines inhabit a really appealing space between tradtional/modern, and rich/fresh. Getting expensive, but probably fairly priced for the quality.

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