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Elvio Cogno with Valter Fissore and Nadia Cogno

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Tasted March 24, 2021 by NickA with 135 views

Introduction

Organised by Stannary St wine, presented by Valter Fissore

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White
2018 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Anas-Cetta Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
91 points
Valter likes to open a bottle of this every day - it is quite light and very food-friendly (not really an aperitif). Sometimes it's like an Alsace Riesling, or in warmer vintages maybe it's more like Gruner. He says it doesn't oxidise and ages very well - he recently enjoyed some 2001 and 2003. Don't drink it too early!

Quite bright. Unique nose - vaguely peachy, with sage increasingly prominent, and then honey. Sense of minerality and some sweetness coming through, verging on the exotic (lychee etc). A little unusual but it's growing on me. Like an Italian Pinot Blanc.
Red
2013 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
93 points
They have been making Barbaresco since 2005, as a challenge. The vineyard is in Neive, which traditionally produces elegant, approachable wines. Valter really likes the 2013s' fine tannins and freshness, and thinks they are ripe enough to be enjoyable already.

A gorgeous translucent tomatoey colour - really stunning. Gorgeous nose - crystalline, pure and tarry, with some rose petal coming through, followed by sweet strawberry. At the moment the principal impression on the palate is of the tannins, which are so fine that they're enjoyable in themselves. It's so elegant and airy and there's some delicious blackberry fruit coming through on the finish. Excellent showing.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
From their best old vines, Lampia 60% Michet (more tannic and austere) 40%, the combination creating character and tension. Valter says Ravera is an energetic, vibrant wine given its altitude, exposure and limestone soil. It's always on the elegant side of Barolo. From 2017 he has started to use some whole cluster - 30% in this vintage. He likens 2017 to a warmer but fresher version of 2015 (and I would tend to agree on this showing). He acknowledges it doesn't have top potential, but has no fear it will age well.

Slightly closed on the nose at first, then some sweeter red fruit coming through - very enticing with air, becoming quite perfumed in a powdery sort of way. Spicy (white pepper from the whole cluster), austere, again those ultra-fine tannins. It feels structurally approachable already, but the full suite of aromas and flavours are yet to unfurl. You do not feel any heaviness here, it's so refined. Could do with a little more concentration on the mid-palate and more length to the finish, too
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Valter says 2016 is one of his best-ever vintages, with unbelievable quality, balanced and very complex. He thinks it's more of a 'blue' fruit vintage than red/black, and again I would tend to agree. Made very traditionally with 60 days on the skins and no noticeable wood. Valter would not tend to decant Barolo, but might open it a little bit beforehand.

Nose is elegant and luxurious, with exotic spices and a creamy richness. Blueberry fruit and lovely balance on the palate - a great sense of ease to the wine, with plenty of acid but enough weight of fruit to compensate. Incredibly silky tannins. Stealthy power - lots of matiere. Sweet fruit on the finish. You could certainly enjoy this already but there is tons of potential (score is for current drinking).
6 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
2015 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice Ravera Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
From the core of Ravera, producing 4-5,000 bottles. The vineyard is shared with Vietti. The microclimate is warmer there, there's more limestone, and it's therefore a more typical style of Barolo (Serralunga-esque). 100% Lampia and aged for longer than the Ravera (so the 2016 is the current release). Valter thinks Bricco Pernice will age slightly less well than Ravera.

A brighter, more straightforward red colour. Very rich red fruit, with some sweetness and balsamic, and then herbs, but it's again cool, poised and finessed. Opens up with air, becoming much smokier and almost acrid (in a good way!), plus revealing further waves of fruit. Really juicy aftertaste. Good but doesn't have the style of the Ravera IMO, and could do with age converting some of its weight into complexity.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Valter chose to show the 2009 tonight because it was a warm vintage, like 2017, and it's been a while since he tasted it. He thinks 2009 is even more full-bodied than both 2015 and 2017.

It's still quite dark in appearance. Very balsamic. Some tertiary meaty/truffley notes coming through, but it doesn't feel fully mature and tannin is still present. Lovely depth to this, and it's soft and enjoyable, although I'm unsure whether the wine will ever grow into its tannins.

Closing

I really enjoy the reserved, slightly austere Barolos of this producer, but glad to discover they also make an excellent white and Barbaresco. And they seem like nice people, too...

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