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ProWein 2008, Day 1

Duesseldorf, Germany

Tasted March 16, 2008 by jvogel with 798 views

Introduction

To summarize very briefly: I was extremely impressed by what the Kremstal and Kamptal put out. The Wachau, however, was extremely disappointing. Keep in mind, this is primarily 2007 we're talking about, and a great deal of the bigger wines--regardless of appellation--were all cask/tank samples. After sulfuring, some adjustments in the blend, and fining/filtering (if any), some of these wine could make turns for the better. But I'm not holding my breath.

Flight 1 (27 notes)

White
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Grub Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Banana chips, papaya, delicious acidity, long and lush finish.
White
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Renner Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Much racier than the Grub, lively, fuller even in some places and even Riesling-like. Delicious and playful.
White
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Reserve Lamm Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Still a tad reduced at the moment, but promising with great structure and already seductive balance. Classic profile for Lamm, but for me hardly as memorable as the '06, which was epic.
White
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Reserve Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Talcy baby powder, solid malty yeast notes (yum), lemon zest and orange peel on the nose. A dandy and slender wine with spectacular, if not perfectly ripe fruit: gorgeous, fresh, long finish. Lovely.
White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Terrassen Kamptal Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Firm, racy, med-full bodied and lovely. Fresh granny-apple and lemon fruit, and a bravado finish.
White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Spicy pepper finish with lingering, albeit subtle bitterness. Nearly as good--perhaps even better (at this stage)--than the '06. But I would need to taste both bottles next to each other to be certain of this assessment, as the '06 Loiser Berg was magnificent.
White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Kamptal Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Gorgeous, rich nose of salted beef hash, pepper--OMG!--massive, extracted palate, feeling even Spaetlese-y, but coming in at only 5 g/l residual sugar. Racy, loooooong finish. Unbelievable. Not exactly the freshest on the nose, but triumphantly massive.
White
2006 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Kamptal Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Compact and a bit closed on the nose, with lots of lime dominating. Slender and more refined than the '07, but equally brilliant if perhaps a bit subdued.
White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Lamm Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) A lovely, leesy barrel sample of pure Lamm personality: honeydew, beef carpaccio, rucola and other (unidentifiable) herbs; I wish I'd had more time to spend with this wine, but I quickly segued to the Rieslings. I do recall this wine as having loads of personality.
White
2006 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Gorgeous, med-bodied, fresh.
White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Lyra Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
(Fassprobe) Creamy, yeasty coconut nose. Brilliant, exotic fruit on the palate, some currant notes even and lingering blueberry pie with that slight touch of bittersweet, and a long--really long--lusty finish. Extraordinarily expressive on the nose. Rich honey exudes from the empty glass alongside smokey minerality.
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White
2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Extraordinary. Powerful. Titanic fruit. Quite nearly integrated finish.
White
2006 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
96 points
Extremely dark, almost Dhron-like intensity. Just an unbelievably protracted nose of white pepper, paprika and, well, this is just amazing. Indescribably complex. The palate is electric, coating everything--mango, papaya, mint--the whole spectrum is there. Unreal finish. Really an almost perfect wine. Truly great.
White
2005 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Perhaps an even more protracted nose, perhaps bordering on 'maturing'. Subtle petrol notes begin to come through, with oolong, honey and some garden herbs. Palate has some spectacular weight; the finish: fully integrated and richly endowed. Lots of honey on the nose now. Great stuff.
White
2003 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
95 points
As strange as this is going to sound, I have to let my nose do the talking: this wine smelled like Bordeaux, the graphite intensity, the rich currant notes, dusty red fruit. Just a gorgeous wine. Absolutely loved this. 95. Period.
White
2007 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
(Did not know if this was a cask sample or not) Quietly rich nose, but interesting, almost beer-like barley malt palate. I think this wine is a bit off. Sad.
White
2007 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
(Almost certain this was a cask sample) Rich, malted nose again (like the Axpoint), revealing mostly honey with ample air. Nose develops more toward mint, some tea and spearmint, and a good core of minerality. Lots of spice and pepper on the palate, w/ lime and some melon-y notes. Extracted, bouyant finish. Not as impressive as I'd expected.
White
2007 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
Bready nose, rich and compact palate, med-bodied. Strong showing for this wine.
White
2007 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
Delicious. Extracted, complex, still a bready nose, malted even. Currants on the palate, roasted honey glaze, and some corn beef shine through. Clean, brilliant finish.
White
2006 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
Gorgeous nose w/ mint, white tea, graham crackers and herbs of an unknown variety (thyme? something in that range?). Palate is massive, explosive, full of fruit vying for attention, but none overwhelming the other. Huge glycerol feel. Stunning wine, with 100% pure intensity.
White
2007 Bernhard Ott Riesling vom Roten Schotter Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
Tasting very much of Rebholz's 'Rotliegendes' bottling. Vine age here is 45-50 yrs old. Brilliant. Excellent quality. Lots of apple mash and lime on the nose. Delineated palate, fresh, pure apple fruit, and a lively, racy finish. With air, the nose takes on a heavy sherbert nose, especially in the empty glass. Awesome. Buy by case.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Leicht und trocken Qualitätswein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
Perhaps the perfect everyday wine--12,4% alc/vol. Loved it.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Hochterrassen Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
A really excited nose with lots of meringue. Wasn't my fav wine of the '07 assortment.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Wieden Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
This baby is one giant. Smells like Cinnabun and apple compote. This thing is just massive right now. My whole body reverberates with the body of this wine.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Reserve Von Stein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
Paprika, curry, white pepper and lemon peel on the nose. The palate slips only a hair, but gains some lofty bitterness at the end. This gives off the distinct impression that Germany '06 gave: heavy extraction that delivered some bitterness right alongside it, as if every single molecule of the grape had been squeezed into juice. This will be an interesting wine to watch.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Riesling Steinterrassen Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
My note was that this wine was 'pretty good'. Wish I'd written more.
White
2007 Weingut Salomon Undhof Riesling Undhof Kögl Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
(I believe this was the Reserve bottling.) Closed down at the moment, but this feels heavy just in the glass. Strange. Less of this wine was poured to me than any of the other wines. The wine exhibited long, slow legs. The palate at this stage showed primarily apple notes. After munching on a few of the pumpkin seeds at the stand, I noticed in these wines a distinct pumpkin seed vein through a lot of them. Given the quality of the seeds, I'd say this was certainly an admirable quality to have displayed subtly in the wine. This will be a wine to watch. I don't think this bottling showed as well as it could have, but it's certainly tipping the scales on a number of fronts, none of which are ready to be exposed.
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