Viña Aquitania is effectively a joint venture of Chile and France. It was founded by Bruno Prats (of Chateau Cos d’Estournel), the late Paul Pontaillier (Chateau Margaux) and Felipe de Solminihac, a Chilean winemaker of French origin. In 2002, a fourth partner joined the founders, being Ghislain de Montgolfier from Champagne. The main vineyard Quebrada de Macul, is located in the heart of the Maipo Valley, right on the edge of the city of Santiago (there are apartments across the road from the vineyard - crazy!). In 2018, I first tasted Viña Aquitania wines with Felipe's son - Eduardo - in New Zealand, before visiting the winery for a tasting in Santiago later in the year. In my opinion, Aquitania produces some of the best wines in all of Chile. The very best of these, again in my view, is the Sol de Sol Chardonnay. You have to visit Chile, and talk with local sommeliers and wine people, to understand what a breakthrough wine it was and is in Chilean wine circles. Its 'Burgundian style' was totally new to Chilean Chardonnay ... It is produced 650 kms from Santiago in the cool climate Traiguén in the Malleco Valley (at latitude 38 degrees south, one of the most southerly vineyards in the world (outside of NZ(!))). Vines were planted in the red clay, volcanic soil from 1993 at 150-200 metres above sea level ... According to Eduardo, 100% of the 2013 Sol de Sol spent eight months in French barrique, 10 - 15% new. Battonage was done twice a week. Eduardo also said that only 5% of wine went through malolactic fermentation, which needed to be forced. In 2013, 8,000 bottles were produced. In 2018, Eduardo said the 2013 Sol de Sol could be kept for 10+ years ...

Under cork. Vibrant light gold. Aromatic. Citric, flinty mineral, spice and white orchard fruit notes. Also some green apple, blanched almonds and hazelnuts and hints of white meadow flowers. On palate, finessed and well balanced. Elegant and quite Burgundian. Pear, nectarine, clotted cream and blanched almond with chalky, flinty minerals. Crisp, precise, green apple acidity. Good body, volume and weight. Deft oak handling - the oak present but well aligned. Alcohol (13% ABV) also in appropriate proportion. At age nine years, nicely evolved. Now in its prime drinking window, until at least 2026.

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy glass over three evenings, during which it did not change. Larry McKenna’s Escarpment Wines regards – and prices – its Te Muna Road, Martinborough Kupe as its top pinot noir cuvée. Most vintages I have preferred Larry’s Kiwa, from older vines on a site on the Martinborough Terraces, over the Kupe. The 2008 however is a top vintage for Kupe – perhaps only a little below their best, the majestic 2016 Kupe – apparently the result of the typically cooler, damper Te Muna terroir meeting the warmer 2008 vintage.

Under cork, in perfect condition. Colour deep ruby, moving ochre at the rim. A bouquet showing old leather, raspberry and red cherry. A palate of clay with touches of leather. Savoury, earthy and herbal. Sous bois, mushrooms and dark cherries (more black than red). Typical Martinborough bramble. Fully dry. Vibrant, persistent acidity, yet with plenty of fully ripe, dark berry fruit. Oak and stems now largely integrated, but with a little tannic grip still present. Moderate alcohol (12.5% ABV). Weight, power and structure, but quite seamless. In its prime now. Drink by about 2028. 93+.

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy stem over three evenings, over which it softened and mellowed. It needs a 4+ hour decant. Aldo Vacca’s favourite Riserva cuvée, and typically mine, as in the under-rated 2011 vintage. Colour good crimson, with garnet flecks. Perfumed – violets, lilacs and red roses – with bright, sweet-seeming Morello cherries, a little kirsch and Vosne spice rack. On palate, appropriately, not as sweet as the bouquet implies. Succulent, mainly black, cherries and plums. Ripe and rich but not, as is the vintage’s reputation, at all over-ripe. Bright, fruity, bold cassis flavours but also with savoury, umami elements. A little tobacco and red liquorice with some tar and old leather (particularly on the third evening). More weight, depth and power from the second evening. Fresh, precise acids. Fine grained tannins, but still with a little youthful grip. The 14.5% ABV alcohol is a bit of a surprise (no alcoholic burn). Quite open, a relatively early drinking Riserva vintage I would not expect to make really old bones. But for Produttori, that probably means it’ll drink well until at least 2035. An excellent, traditionally made Nebbiolo. 94+.

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy glass over three evenings, during which it did not change. Good ruby, paler and more watery at the rim. A lovely Gevrey nose. Lifted red cherries, chalky minerals, tilled soil, spices and a touch of Gevrey funk. In the mouth, direct and linear. Bright and clean. Intense, powerful and quite primary for a 12 year old wine. Ripe, opulent fruit, well balanced by racy acidity and strict but spherical tannins. Red cherries, wild raspberries and a dash of cranberry, with limestone minerality. Juicy and crunchy fruit. The oak tannins now melded and well integrated. Understated with serious volume and structure. Moderate alcohol (13.5% ABV). A really high quality Cazetiers, I would expect to continue to drink optimally until 2030+. Worth the high score, 94.

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy stem over two nights, during which it did not change. Bright but lighter ruby colour. An airy bouquet of dark red cherries, raspberries, dark chocolate, wet slate, plums and bonfire smoke. On palate, elegant, restrained and a little (attractively) austere, with flavour complexity. Typical 2014 red Burgundy, a vintage I very much like. Sour cherry, chalky minerality, cocoa and a dash of cranberry. Some iron at the core. Vivid acidity, very dry. Clean and pure. Compact, well integrated tannins. Alcohol (13% ABV) fully aligned. Near the start of its optimal drinking window now, until around 2030, I would think. [Edit: last sentence changed to clarify my view of the drinking window].

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy stem over three evenings over which it integrated and improved, drinking at its best on the third evening. Deep, dark crimson, a little garnet at the rim. A bouquet of mainly dark cherry, plum and berry fruit, with savoury, earthy, brambly and spicy nuances. More sottobosco and old leather notes emerged on the third evening. More savoury and earthy on palate than the Bruno Rocca drunk after it. Still ripe, lush dark fruit, but not, at all, over-ripe. Flavours reflecting the bouquet. Good fresh acidity retained in the warm vintage. The acids and minerals emerge on the mid palate. The umami, hoisin, soy notes intensified after a few hours open. Dense with serious fruit weight, power and structure yet poised and elegantly proportioned and balanced. Relatively fine gained tannins but still some grippy, taut tannins on the finish to uncoil. The relatively high alcohol (14.5% ABV) well disguised. Enjoyable now but ideally hold until 2025+. I am a big fan of Cavallotto’s understated, traditional Castiglione Falletto wines and the 2009 San Giuseppe is all class.

Drunk from Zalto Denk'Art Burgundy glass over two evenings. On the second evening, the Bruno Rocca Normale seemed even richer and plummier. Rabajà-style Barbaresco on bouquet and palate. Kirsch and vibrant red cherries, wild raspberries and red currants, spices and red rose perfumes. Sweeter-seeming than the Cavallotto (even as a 2009). Also, a sweet-seeming, ripe and opulent fruit attack on palate. Primary and fruit forward. However not, to my palate, surmaturité or a New World fruit bomb. Some savouriness on the mid palate. Largely red fruit, some clay, cocoa, espresso and a little grapefruit citrus. Silky tannins, decent acidity. A touch too much alcohol (14.5% ABV), although largely absorbed by the fleshy fruit. Delicious. Fully open for easy drinking. To drink from now over the 2020s+.