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French Bakery BYO 2000+prior Bordeaux Right Bank(Libournais)

French Bakery, Kane concourse, Bay Harbor Islands, Florida

Tasted April 15, 2008 by markellen.foodies@gmail.com with 1,219 views

Introduction

Attendees: Cesar Basurto(Southern Wine); Alam & William Berke; Deirdre Conley(Boisset America); Carlos Deupi; Elaine & Ed Davis; Roberta & David Errenreich; Ellen & Mark Friedman(Us); Charlie Frumkin(French Bakery Host); Richard Groves(Boisset-America); Abe Horwitz; Jerry McGinley; and Craig von Teuber.

Maria Frumkin's Menu:
Crayfish Bisque
Pate en Croute - Family Style
Celery root soup(Celeriac), with Chantarelles
Coq au Vin
Agneau Roti
Chocolate Duo

Flight 1 - BORDEAUX BLANC PRECIS (1 note)

White
2004 Château Fombrauge Blanc France, Bordeaux
92 points
Charlie's Precis. This was my tasting note from the Bernard Magrez wine luncheon at Chez Bittel in October 2006.
Delicious highly acidic (St Emillon) blanc. The Sauvignon gris is a new grape to me, and combined with the Muscadelle creates a distinctive high acid white that paired well with Chilean Sea Bass in court boullion.(The principal grapes are Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon).

Flight 2 - 1982 STRUTS IT's STUFF! (3 notes)

Red
1980 Château Figeac France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
flawed
Past its prime. Tasted of kerosene. Similar to the 1945 Pape Clement, Bob Dickinson served at Mike Bittel's Bernard Magrez Wine Luncheon last year. Came in last in flight. Miles away from the 82 which was WOTF.
Red
1982 Château Figeac France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
93 points
Richard's wine, which he purchased for the event locally, and allegedly at a reasonable price???(Jerry and Craig were going to buy out the stock soon after the event.) WOTF(and one of the highlights of the night), and a world away from the sickly 1980. Still vibrant, with little to reveal its age, it had an excellent, and still restrained buquet, minerality and an extended finish. Has a decade or two ahead of it. A tribute to Figeac and the Vintage.
Carlos incredibly identified this, and the entire flight blind prior to discussion, and unveiling. (We list our flight preferences on post-it notes, prio to discussion, and unveiling.) BRAVO, Carlos!
Red
1979 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90 points
Carlos' wine. Unfortunately not decanted prior to dinner, so Charlie had trouble with the cork, and sediment. Was 2nd to the 82 Figeac, but still youthful for a 29 year old wine. Would have benefitted from more aeration. Carlos, as indicated by the 82 Figeac correctly blindly identifed, all the wines in this antique flight. This was part of his father's wine legacy to him. And the last bottle. Thank you Carlos for sharing it with us.

Flight 3 - Is This PETER MAYLE's MYSTERY Wine from "A VERY GOOD YEAR"? (3 notes)

Red
1996 Le Petit Cheval France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
89 points
Deirdre's wine. Came in 3rd in flight to the mystery wine Lavallade Cuvee Roxana, and the 97 L'Evangile. Quite good, considering the competition. We openly misidentified it presuming the apparent Cab Franc herbaceousness to type it(That turned out to be the L'Evangile which probably reflected the 97 Vintages lack of phenolic ripeness.) A good basic Brodeaux, but with little to distinguish it from its brethren.
Red
2000 Château Lavallade France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
93 points
William's wine. Cuvee Roxana. One he purchased at the Vineyard(Chateau?). He related that it was only sold at the cellar door, and Madame proclaimed she had no need to export it or raise the price. This reminded me of Peter Mayle's Mystery Wine from the wonderful book(and weak Cameron Crowe movie) A Very Good Year.
Solidly the WOTF , and one of the evening's highlights. A balanced Bordeaux, that showed very well against its heralded competition.
Red
1997 Château L'Evangile France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
92 points
Cesar's wine, presumably decanted before dinner. Was 2nd in the flight to the Mystery Wine 2000 Lavallade, Cuvee Roxana. A herbaceous wine, that caused most of us to presume Cabarnet Franc, and confuse it with the Petit Cheval. I particularly liked the herbaceousness, but the group as a whole preferred the balanced Lavallade. I attribute the herbaceousness, to the lack of phenolic ripeness in the vintage.

Flight 4 - ANGELUS vs PAVIE (3 notes)

Red
1999 Château Pavie France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
95 points
Craig's wine(?). unbelievably 2nd in the flight to David's 89 Angelus. My favorite in the flight, and one of my top wines of the night. Drinking beautifully now, and much more forward than my 98, I had earlier this month. An intense forward flavorful St Emillon with prfound bouquet, palate presence, and extended finish. Truly a 95 point wine.
Red
1989 Château Angélus France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
95 points
David's wine. WOTF, and the Group's WOTN. The group preferred it to the 99 Pavie, and they were clearly readier than than the mamoth 95 Angelus, which came in 3rd. An excellent mature Bordeaux that to me seemed in its prime, and possibly on the decline. Good bouquet, mouthfeel, and finsish, but I personally preferred the Pavie, and the Valandraud(for WOTN.)
Red
1995 Château Angélus France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
90 points
Jerry's wine. Came in 3rd in the flight. A massive brooding, reticent wine that clearly needs another 10+ years. I used the Vintui aerator on it to get it possibly reveal itself. Good, but was outshone by its approachable sibling the 89, and the 99 Pavie.

Flight 5 - POMEROL: CHARLIE WINS A FLIGHT (Finally!) (3 notes)

Red
1988 Château Trotanoy France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90 points
David's wine. Ranked equally to the 96 Clinet, but was outshone by Charlie's Lagrange. Good mature Bordeaux, but lacked the typicity and finesse of the Lagrange.
Red
1996 Château Lagrange (Pomerol) France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
92 points
Charlie's wine, and WOTF. I blindly commented that this was quintessential Bordeaux, with which Charlie concurred. A balanced wine, with excellent bouquet, cedar, lead pencil. Good bouquet, mouthfeel, and extended finish. A complete wine, that outclassed its Pomerol brethren.
So much for you know who's taste. In the proverbial minute he gave to this wine he rated it a 76!!!
Red
1996 Château Clinet France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90 points
Abe's wine. In this Pomerol flight the group overwhelmingly preferred the Lagrange to the Clinet and the Trotanoy. While both wines were perhaps equal, they lacked the completeness of the Lagrange.

Flight 6 - The GARAGISTE THUNEVIN's VALANDRAUD Sweeps the Competition (3 notes)

Red
1998 Château Valandraud France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
96 points
Craig's wine, for which he apparently paid a small fortune, and which he shared with us, in its initial trial. THANK YOU CRAIG!Hands down WOTF, and to my taste WOTN. A World Class Wine with a captivating bouquet, rich dark fruit, great tactile pleasure, and an extended finish. Everthing I seek in a great wine. What more can be said?
Red
1998 Château de Sales France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90 points
One of Carlos' bonus wines. Like the L'Arrossee had the misfortune of being compared to the otherworldly 98 Valandraud. Again a good basic Bordeaux.
Red
1990 Château L'Arrosée France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
90 points
Ed's wine. Had the misfortune of being tried against the 98 Valandraud. = to the 98 Ch. des Salles, but both wines were eclipsed by the Valandraud. A good basic Bordeaux.

Flight 7 - My LA GOMERIE (100% Merlot) tops the blends (3 notes)

Red
1998 Château Quinault L'Enclos France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
91 points
MY wine from Magnum. Eclipsed by my Gomerie, but extremely youthful from magnum, despite 2 hour decant. Ellen's favorite of the night, for which I'm glad as we have 3 more Mags. Reticent nose, deep dark fruits. Needs time.
Red
2000 Château La Gomerie France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
94 points
My wine. WOTF, and one of the top wines of the evening. Decanted for an hour in am. Shows great inensity and minerality. Will let my last two sleep to await aromatic development, and secondary flavors. Jerry and Craig appreciated my contribution.
Red
1973 Rouffiac France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
90 points
One of Carlos' bonus wines, from his father's legacy. Incredibly none of us could identify this as a 36 YEAR OLD Bordeaux. It was still youthful, with no evidence of seniltiy. It drank well, but obviously lacked the fruit of the young wines. I thought the 70 vintages were supposed to be weak, with the exception of 1970, and perhaps 1978?

Flight 8 - YUM, YUM, YUM an Extraordinary DESSERT WINE!!! (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1997 Domaine des Petits Quarts (Godineau) Bonnezeaux France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Bonnezeaux
98 points
Ed's Dessert AMBROSIA!!!Vendage Grain per Grain! What more can I say, than Ellen who NEVER drinks dessert wines really liked it. Much, much better than the 88 Y'quem and 86 Tokaii Essenz we enjoyed with Deirdre and others earlier this month. Rich succulent tropical fruits, incredible acidity. One of the finest dessert wines I have experienced. To my mind the = of the 2001 WOTY Rieussec

Closing

One of the finest tastings we have enjoyed over the last year and half. Much better than the Left Bank of last year. The highlights were many, with most of us having the opportunity to bask in our selections. Richard's 82 Figeac was superb. William's Mysterie Lavallade an eye opener. Craig 99 Pavie, and David's 89 Angelus vied for top spot, with the group giving prefernce to the Angelus.Charlie's Lagrange(Pomerol) was quintessential Bordeaux, Craig's 98 Valandraud was EXTRAORDINARY (96-100), my Gomerie exquisite, and Ed's Bonnezeaux a heavenly finish to an exceptional evening.

Next month, we are doing Northern Rhone, Red or White, on Tuesday, May 20. The group is limited to 16, with pre-billing!

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