Tasted double blind. Clearly a mature Old World wine from a ripe vintage. Caramel apple and baked apple with faint mushroom and impressive richness. There was a mustiness to start, which blew off after 15-20 minutes, resulting in a truly charming wine.

Darker color and more advanced than I would prefer, but with plenty of rich fruit to start. This gradually freshened up, but never to the level of the best bottles I've had in recent years. Still, this is concentrated and powerful with unmistakable Grand Cru density. The last glass was still tasty on Day Two.

Red and black cherry throughout with very savory spice. Good depth and balance, this is consistently a very elegant 1996.

Ultra rich and meaty with dense black fruit, sweet spice throughout, then ending with a meaty and complex finish. Great balance, culminating with a long, layered ending. Great now, and possibly for another decade. Much cleaner than the last bottle I tasted last year.

Big and broad black fruit, still surprisingly fresh, but also some firm tannins. Good power on long-ish finish, with good enough complexity.

Opened and decanted an hour before serving. Big black cherry and plum with subtle spice, roasted meat in the near background. So much ere. Tannins are still robust without dominating, and clearly indicating this wine has even further cellarworthiness. More fully harmonious and even greater on Day Two.

Popped-and-poured, bottle with a great fill and great color. Fully mature yet with enough fruit and lots of cigarbox. No longer that powerful, but lots here. Thanks for the birthday treat, Mark.