Les Maillons is a 6-hectare vineyard of which Collin owns 2.5 hectares in the village of Barbonne-Fayel in the Côte de Sézanne, just south of the Coteaux du Morin. The eastern-exposed Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1971 in heavy clay soils with chalky limestone sub-soils. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts in oak, bottled without fining, filtering or sulfuring, aged sur lattes for 3 years. Base vintage 2017, disgorged March 2021, bottle No. 1622. Medium salmon colour; vinous and rich and structured but floral and lifted at the same time, vibrant and relaxed, fresh strawberries and honeyed stone fruit, silky texture, lovely grip on the finish, excellent resonance and length.

Made with 100% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, base vintage 2018 (80%), disgorged 5 November 2021 with a dosage of 2 gr/l, production 1,527 bottles. Rich and youthful, hugely energetic, flowers and spiced red apple, minerally depth, very expressive, forward and relaxed, marries power and elegance, excellent persistence.

Identical to my previous note. I have now personally consumed 0.5% of the global stocks of this wine!

Lots of minerally energy, bright and crisp and yeasty, very dry, tight and borderline austere, direct and angular, not all that easy to love.

Les Chaumées is located high up on the hill, on the border with Saint-Aubin. Brilliant Chassagne, hint of reduction, perfectly judged oak, ripe citrus and orchard fruit, perfect balance between ripeness and freshness, cool minerality and a hint of earth, jewelly texture, wonderfully racy acidity for this warm vintage, excellent resonance and length.

Ripe and vinous style, mildly sweet yellow apple, honey and floral notes, minerals, full-bodied, slightly oily texture, decent length. Flavoursome rather than refined.

Marvellous freshness, fruit and purity, very youthful and mildly yeasty, completely natural but clean as a whistle, mild tannins, silky fruit, long and flowing finish, roses and strawberries.

Sweet Condrieu! A rare bird nowadays, but until the 1960's most moelleux and demi-sec were very common in the AOC. So nice to be able to try this, and a good wine it is too. Harvested on 31 October, 12% ABV, 500ml bottle. Rich golden colour, deep and spicy and honeyed, passion fruit and flowers, peaches and apricots, medium sweet, liquorous (RS: 148 gr/l), firm acidity, mild bitters, luxurious but fresh, tropical fruit, excellent resonance and length.