Knights of Alba (KOA) NY Intronization - May 2023
NY Private Club
Tasted May 10, 2023 by MC2 Wines with 136 views
Introduction
The word that is not really a word (Intronization) continues with the Alba group. Here it is not a sword but instead a wine vine which is kindof fun which is placed on your shoulders. And medallions have names on them and they have their own labeled wine. A big ceremony (22 of us added to the group which is now up to 14 different markets and seeming to continue to grow). Fun event to see so many of our friends and get to chat more with folks we know less well. It was a bit of pomp and circumstance and all of that but I guess tis the season.
Flight 1 - Beginning sipper (1 note)
Served with a bunch of passed appetizers.
Black Truffle Gougeres
Cauliflower Frito Misto, a choice
Fava Bean Bruschetta, pecorino, mint
White
2022 Bruna Grimaldi Langhe Arneis
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Lots of different versions of this wine. Had misunderstood this was the Giacosa version and it surprised me since that’s a popular one for us to order in the summer at our local Italian place. This takes a slightly different approach to the grape. Very dry. Almost a bit tannic or with that mouth drying style. It’s slightly sharp and a hint sour. I think a well made wine with a clear style which I can appreciate but isn’t my favorite of the ones I’ve tried (this is also though a grape that I quite enjoy as the more hedonistic laidback summer sipper so the slight touch of effervescence that some others bring in and an almost sense of sweet isn’t as off putting for me - this is definitely aiming to be the more serious style).
Flight 2 - The Ceremony (1 note)
Red
2020 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d'Alba Drago
Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba
As this is a wine that is meant to be a single sip before you get your medallion and are officially ‘knighted’ it was a more basic style. I can love a good Nebbiolo d’Alba though as they can be really nice and classic drinking and that fruit with the high acid is right in my wheelhouse. This was more muted. Less fruit. A bit more tea leaves. Not quite the sharp acidity. Drinking totally fine.
Flight 3 - First Course (2 notes)
Porcini Panna Cotta
Mushroom textures, Parmesan air, frico
Red
2020 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Freisa
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
My strong contender for WOTN because it was just so well made and balanced and I’m sure I’m a bit biased based on the producer but even when we did our tasting with MT a few years ago I loved this. It’s dark fruits, more spices, very bright and very subtle. Great freshness. Drinks very well. I am a fan.
Red
2021 Bartolo Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba
Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba
A much more vinous style of dolcetto which you don’t always see. Darker fruits again (versus some of the more red fruit style). A bit more interesting and multidimensional than I expect for a Dolcetto. This is a wine you could sit and contemplate on its own whereas for me this is a grape that most often is happiest when paired with food. Very bright. Drinks nicely but I think probably better with more years.
Flight 4 - Second Course (4 notes)
Monkfish Saltimbocca
Red wine risotto, saffrito al barolo
Red
2013 Poderi Colla Barolo Dardi Le Rose Bussia
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Darker fruits, more tannins, very young even though it’s got 10 years. Very brooding in style. More drying tannin. It had been opened earlier in the night and evolved a bit in the glass but for me was in perhaps a bit of a quiet phase at the moment. Not quite the young fruit forward style but nor yet having the time to have really matured into some of the secondary.
Red
2013 Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Much more subtle in style than the barolo from the same producer and year. Mostly I get a lot of mint but in more of a tea style. Interesting. With time maybe some rose hips. Similar to its brother it’s a quieter style of wine. Solid. Wonder if some more years will help with evolution.
Red
2017 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I never had the pleasure of meeting Luciano but you hear the stories about him all over the valley and it’s hard not to feel that I missed out on a truly great human being. I tend to prefer more traditional styles and this certainly is not that. I find with oak it really helps if the wine has 20-25 years so that that can be really integrated and you can get some more of the complexity and interest from it. This was just very young. A darker style. More depth to it than the wines right before but not really showing its stuff yet. Give it a bunch of time.
Red
2017 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Again it’s interesting but really quite young and not at all ready for prime time. Blackberry. More fruity in nature than the Le Vigne. Intense. Oak still there although it’s not overpowering. Lots more time again. I wonder if I couldn’t actually really love this wine with something like 30 years.
Flight 5 - Third Course (2 notes)
Roast Rack of Lamb
Truffle polenta, spring onion agrodolce, rappini
Red
2008 Oddero Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Much more classic style than the wines we had right before. Darker fruits. Also super young. This was a winemaker vintage and you can see the more subtle styling to it but it needs a lot more time and seems to not quite have the depth that I’d want (hoping that is just a timing thing and it will open up more as it goes). It is from Serralunga d’Alba so the truly more dense style of barolo and yet this is not overly heavy.
Red
2013 Oddero Barolo Brunate
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Interesting to see this one being so much bigger and more intense than the Vigna Rionda - would not expect it given the communes they are both from. Perhaps the year driving. Darker fruit. Slightly herbal. Again a solid barolo.
Flight 6 - Fourth Course (2 notes)
Gorgonzola, Picante Tart
Dates, walnut, honeycomb
House Made Chocolates & Petit Fours
Red
2001 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Quite nice and fresh and out of the Barolos probably the one I preferred the most. Started in a good spot and continued to get better with additional air. Very well structured. A very solid Barolo.
Red
1996 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Alas there is always some bottle variation when you get to these older wines and this was a not fully flawed but not exactly perfect bottle (I think more evident given the previous note which mentioned fruit). Here there was some Brett and the nose was almost all horse blanket. Luckily not a flavor I dislike but it does seem to cast almost a veil over wine when it’s there so the flavors are all a bit more muted and harder to pick out.
Closing
I’m not sure that the Bartolo Mascarello Freisa wasn’t my WOTN. As Sabra wisely pointed out it’s not the most economical decision Marie Therese makes when she continues to make Freisa and Dolcetto in areas that can be replanted with Nebbiolo and command Barolo prices which are multiples. Still she is one of the vanguards of the industry and does an amazing job respecting the history (still the single barolo blended) while making some just spectacular wines. A few months ago we did a tasting where one of the hypotheses was could MT be making wines that might even be better than what her father was doing before her and I think that answer was quite possibly yes. Which are huge shoes to fill because her father made some truly mind bending wines. So in a line-up with a lot of Nebbiolo which I love I find myself drawn to one of the odd grapes out.
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