This was clearly the ripest out of all the wines tonight, with a rounder texture with obvious honey notes. A little more developed than I expected for its age, but like the other wines this got much better with air. Enjoyable but the next two were a step up in terms of intensity and depth.

Wow an incredibly expressive floral nose with melon and orchard fruit from the get-go. Bracing acidity but with such generous fruit on the palate that gave it good balance. It was a ringer for a Burgundy at first, but as it warmed up in the glass its Jura nature began to show. Loved the mixture of tension and exuberance here. Tough to decide between this and the Marnes Bleues, this was more immediate and pleasurable but didn’t quite have the same depth or length of finish. Liked it a lot nevertheless.

Initially much tighter and less expressive than the Grands Teppes but gradually showed its pedigree. A truly contemplative wine with so much complexity, had the body and weight that only the best producers can achieve. A completely different style to the Grand Teppes, this was broader-shouldered and more powerful, with a greater focus on heft rather than tension. Finish that lingered. WOTN for most, including myself.

Not very oxidative when first opened but the sous voile nature was a little too much for me after a couple of hours. Not a fan of maderised flavours in wine.

Took time to get going as it was too reduced and acidic to the point of being sour at first. This bottle was more natural and funky than the last one I had a couple of years ago, with more obvious bready notes. Got much better with air and converged with the Ganevat in terms of profile, if not verve and complexity.