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A selection of Weinbach wines with Laurence Faller

Strasbourg, France

Tasted June 5, 2005 by Will with 1,880 views

Introduction

Sixteen persons gathered at Edith Wilsdorf's place in Strasbourg on the 5th of June for an OL organised by Panos during a multi-events day. After getting compliments from several attendees for my boyish looks (I hope it will be the same in 20 or 30 years! ;) I got the opportunity to meet many new and old friends. We then procedeed to the first event, a blind tasting of 2000 St-Emilion, which is the topic of another thread. Once we had done our taster's duty, though, we decide it was ample time to move on to more hedonistic pleasures - which didn't disappoint!

We started by some beautifully prepared salmon en croute and fish terrine, paired with 2003 and 2003 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée St Catherine (see below for TNs). The next dish was a stunning creation of Emile Jung: a compotee of lamb with coriander, red pepper and a vegetable salad which was impressive by its freshness - and paired magnificently with the 2002 Riesling. We had then planned to have a verticale of Laurence Faller's wines, but due to a misunderstanding the next dish (pork roast with prunes) was already served - we had thought of pairing it with some Barolos but there was no way we could have the Riesling verticale afterwards so we decided to simply have it with water - which was actually a welcome break!

Let's move on to the wines!

Flight 1 - Verticale of Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine conducted by Laurence Faller (7 notes)

The first two wines (2003 and 2002) were tasted with the starters. The other wines were tasted double blind since we didn't know the vintages, although we knew that they were being presented from youngest to oldest. All the wines were of incredible quality, from very good at a minimum to excellent on average and simply stunning in a few instances. Globally the 93 and the 94 were the 2 favourite wines of the tasting (about 50-50%) for different reasons. This means more that they were more ready to drink than anything about the recent vintages, all of which are showing very good potential.

White
2003 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Very expressive nose, quite a good deal of finesse and purity but not showing the typical focus from this cuvee (not yet, at least).
White
2002 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
This wine is just marvelous. It is a very typical showing for this cuvee but everything seems to be just one notch higher in this vintage. Fresh, pure, vibrant with a nose to die for, the usual great package of minerality and acidity in perfect balance and a long finish. Riesling at its finest.
White
2001 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Nice minerality on the palate, on the nose aromas of beewax and honey. Really dry with a great balance.
White
1997 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
On the nose white flowers and enormous minerality (typical petrol nose). The wine melts in the mouth with again flowers but also developing towards impressive coffee aromas (!) with incredible freshness.
White
1996 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Quinces on the nose with hints of petrol, off-dry for me with good underlying acidity.
White
1994 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Incredibly mineral nose again, with clear botrytis aromas in the mouth. The finesse this wine reaches is really incredible and the balance is simply superb. A real treat.
White
1993 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Petrol notes on the nose but more importantly all the aromas seem to be perfectly merged/integrated together. The keyword here is harmony. As usual very well balanced overall with great finesse with aromas of flowers, anis/fenouilh (?) and botrytis flavors. What is striking here is that it is not as powerful as the 94 but for me it is more compelling due to the fact that everything seems to fall perfectly into place.

Flight 2 - Various reds for fun (3 notes)

We moved on to red wines from different regions, including at the end 4 Barolos whose names I didn't fully get, which is why they are not properly including. From my sketchy notes, the first was 2001 Cambi (?), with a spicy nose (aromatic herbs), nice fruit, a lot of acidity for an overall average impression. The second one was 1999 Bricco Delle Violle that I liked a lot without taking specific notes. Same for the third, 1999 Macchesi di Barolo Reserva which was my favourite of the flight. The fourth was 1998 Marcarini Brunate with animal notes on the nose, already quite evolved but not showing as well for me than the Macchesi di Barolo. We finished with a Barolo in a different style, a magnum a 1996 Roberto Voezio (?) Riserva showing much more oak at this stage that the others and particularly dry (wood) tannins. I had problems to come to terms with such dry tannins although some others seemed to enjoy it a lot.

Re: the other wines tasted, the Pride was really impressive. Regardless of issues of style, this is a great wine, period. Michael, Jean and I had a discussion about food pairing, going from the typical steak suggestion to fish with red wine sauce - we were all convinced this would work great. We were actually talking about sourcing some bottles to experiment with food paring ;)

Re: the CdP, I know Laurence (and others) thought the wine was dead, I know Francois is going to friendly mock me for my love of this beautiful region and its wines, but truth be told I couldn't care less - I enjoyed it tremendously and that's enough for me. For all other inquiries please refer to my signature :D

Red
1977 Bodega Weinert Malbec Estrella Argentina, Mendoza
Clear tertiary aromas on the nose that seem to jump out of the glass. The wine was a bit too warm at first and I decided to pour some cold water on the glass to cool it a bit. After this quick treatment the fruit is more present and the wine more balanced. Tannins are well integrated and the wine is pleasing and really powerful for its age, but it still shows a bit too much alcohol for my tastes.
Red
2001 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve USA, California, Napa Valley
The nose is really superb and in the mouth the wine is huge and round, incredibly mouth-filling. This is a truly beautiful wine with very ripe fruit and an impression of sweetness leading to a very long finish. This is a BIG BIG BIG wine and not for the faint of heart. A beauty.
Red
1978 Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was just a terrific wine. It was in no way perfect and it was even, as some persons stated, quite over the hill already and slightly oxdised. But in terms of emotion for me almost no wine came close in the whole day. I was just so enthralled by the nose that kept changing and changing and changing. It started with remnants of fruit, actually more like dried fruits and a certain dustiness which looked to me like fairy dust sprinkled on this wine to make it more magickal. It then evolved towards even more extremely dry aromas such as sun-dried tomato but also displaying a certain nutty character. On the palate the wine was definitely rather light-bodied but with a grace and elegance, a perfume, a way to coat the mouth that I really adored. I kept coming back to it again and again, discovering new aromas each time, e.g. after a while a very powerful moka scent. I think I must have drunk at least one fourth of the bottle on my own (and left it empty as could be). Many many thanks to Jean for bringing this.

Flight 3 - Gewürtztraminer with seletion of cheese (2 notes)

The selection of cheese (from Anthony (?) in Strasbourg) was great with 3y and 2y old Comte, Fourme d'Ambert and Reblochon. The wines paired admirably well with all the cheeses. The first wine in the flight was the 2003 Gewürtztraminer Altenbourg from Weinbach which was very good but failed to make as much a lasting impression on me as the other 2 that you can find below. Eating an incredibly good 3y Comte with the 2001 Furstentum VT from Weinbach is I must say quite an experience - heartily recommended.

White - Off-dry
2001 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendanges Tardives France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
A superb Gewürztraminer, impressive nose, explosive palate but everything still in check - perfect balance, not one thing detracting from the whole experience. This gives the impression the grape has been totally "mastered", keeping only the positive aspects (wide aromatic palette, freshness, vivacity) and none of the negative ones (a certain heaviness and alcoholic showing at times). Pairing superbly with great cheeses.
White - Off-dry
2001 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Mambourg Vendanges Tardives France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Interesting to drink this side to side with the Furstentum, it is distinctly different, for me a bit less exuberant than the Furstentum, a little more focused and delineated. I still preferred the Furstentum, though.

Closing

As can be seen from the TNs, my wine of the day was the '78 CdP, followed closely by the 2001 Gewürtz Furstentum VT - really a wine that can reconcile anybody with Gewürtz! I also enjoyed a lot the 2002 Riesling Schlossberg.

Thanks again to Panos and especially Edith for organising this, to all the participants for the great company and the seemingly endless discussions, to Emile Jung for a stunning dish and especially to our guest Laurence Faller for her presence, her wines and for being an incredibly talented winemaker (and for her charm too of course!).

Guillaume

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