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dinner at Boragó

Vitacura, Santiago de Chile

Tasted May 30, 2023 by WindFlyer with 39 views

Flight 1 - Bosque Nativo (1 note)

Red
2011 De Martino Carménère Armida Chile, Maipo Valley, Isla de Maipo
93 points
dark ruby and medium bodied in the glass, the nose is layered and rich in spice, leather and tobacco amid the cassis and blackberry. surprisingly fresh in the initial attack, the mid palate opens to replicate the nose. well framed by the acidity and polished tannins, it is delightfully layered and complex in concentrated secondary flavours that carry thru a long spicy finish.

an excellent example of aged Carmenere that is probably at peak.

13.8% AbV; from the Alto las Piedras vineyard in Isla de Maipo; twenty-six months ageing in oak (30% new)

70,000 CLP, paired with:
* "Bosque Nativo" de Pitra, Pewén y Peumo
* Changle de la Selva Valdiviana y trufa chilena
* Chupe de hongos, castaña y Loyo a la brasa
(successful in all cases, with the rich secondary notes of the wine harmonising well the earthy flavour of the food)

Flight 2 - Las Rocas (1 note)

White
2021 Ravelo y Rabelo Sauvignon Blanc Seiku Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Marchigüe
88 points
amber colour in the glass and with appreciable viscosity. very reticent nose for the varietal with light citrus and floral aromas and no grassy overtones whatsoever. medium bodied in mouth, a notable minerality and acidic backbone frame the somewhat austere palate. as it warms, fruit notes with honeyed overtones emerge and dissipate in the acidic and pithy finish.

an atypical and interesting Sauv. Blanc that may be better suited to a different setting.

12.5% AbV; from the cooler and mineral-rich region of Marchigüe; skin-contact, unfiltered, sulfite-free; 300 bottles produced.

13,500 CLP, paired with:
* Sol de mar de Jibia (textures complemented, if not the flavours)
* Pulmay ahumado en Tepú (the food overwhelmed the wine)
* Ice Brûlée de machas y almeja rosada con miniaturas manzanas silvestres de la Patagonia (very good pairing)

Flight 3 - El Pacífico y la Patagonia (3 notes)

Red
2021 JP Martin Garnacha De Cal Chile, Atacama, Valle de Huasco
91 points
beautiful brilliant ruby colour in the glass and moderate body. the nose is fresh with red berries and floral whiffs that carry on to the mouth. the initial fruity attack mellows in the mid palate as smoky notes and hint of salinity lead into a moderate finish still dominated by tannins.

lovely and well-balanced Grenache that maybe needs a tad more bottle age.

13.5% AbV; from young vines planted on limestone-rich soils in Huasco, very far to the North.

16,000 CLP, paired with:
* Caldo de raíces de Kollof, algas y plantas de roca
* Milcao al rescoldo y mantequilla de pajarito
(very good pairing in every respect)
Rosé
2017 Massoc Freres Rosé Chile, Itata Valley
89 points
coppery salmon colour in the glass. the nose is fragrant with yellow stone fruit, pomegranate, and floral whiffs. light bodied and dry in the mouth, the somewhat creamy texture belies the astringent and tart citric acidity that runs thru the palate and into the finish. very good concentration.

rosé that highlights the freshness of Cinsault above all.

12.5% AbV; from 20-y.o. vines in the Itata Valley; slow fermentation in stainless steel and ten-month ageing on lees.

12,600 CLP, paired with:
* Crema Pastelera de zanahoria de playa y tomate rosado a la brasa (very good pairing)
* Langosta de Juan Fernandez cocida en un bladder de algas (some textural compatibility, but the wine's intense astringency somewhat overwhelmed the sweetness of the lobster)
Red
2015 Viña Vik Millahue Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley
94 points
dark, purply, and inky in the glass with appreciable body. the nose is generous with blue and black fruit and lovingly accented by sandalwood, herbs and just a whiff of tobacco. full feeling yet fresh in the mouth with an ample fruit core, spicy and savoury overtones quickly appear in the mid palate. a subtle mineral vein dances thru the berry and cassis notes and complements the very polished and already well-integrated tannins. very long finish with a subtle balsamic bend.

different than other VIKs i've tasted, still elegant and perhaps more fascinating for that reason. remarkably open, accessible, and integrated already, yet with the mettle to likely go a decade. there's some upside potential.

14% AbV; more straightforward blend of 85% Cab. Sauv/ 15% Cab. Franc, reportedly from the cooler plots of Millahue (no more Carmenere in the blend); twenty-six months ageing in French oak (60% new).

136,000 CLP, paired with:
* Cordero patagonico cocido a la inversa y un año alrededor de la higuera
(excellent pairing in every respect)
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Flight 4 - de la Patagonia al Desierto (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Cavas del Valle Moscatel Rosa Espumante Brut Chile, Elqui Valley
87 points
pale pink with persistent and somewhat coarse bubbles. very aromatic and floral nose of yellow stonefruit and white flowers with citric whiffs. both fruity and fresh in mouth, interesting mineral notes would course thru the mid palate. good acidity in the finish.

no AbV noted (likely around 12%); Charmat method.

9,500 CLP, paired with:
* Helado de leche de oveja chilota con compota de martilla y ruibarbo (good with the fruit, not so much with the ice cream)

also to accompany (not exactly to pair with):
* Crema helada con extracto de Rica Rica y algas
* Semifreddo de Rosa del Año de Atacama y Chañar
* Mini Magnum de Loyo y Maqui
* Frio Glacial (molecular style)

Flight 5 - After-dinner drinks (4 notes)

Spirits
N.V. Kaikyō Hatozaki Finest Japanese Whisky Japan, Kansai, Hyōgo
pale straw colour with a rather delicate floral nose with hints of melon and citrus fruits. very smooth in the palate with an almost ethereal feel that belies its alcohol. the floral and fruity notes continue along with very mellow wood and nut overtones on a perceptibly sweet base. moderate length with some pepper notes and (at last) heat.

not particularly versed in this style to assign a rating…

40% AbV; up to twelve years of ageing in barrel.
Red - Fortified
1997 Niepoort Porto Colheita Portugal, Douro, Porto
95 points
less tawny and more ruby colour in the glass with good viscosity. nose of oranges, caramel, dried fruit and pecans. smooth and silky in the mouth, the sweet flavours unfold gracefully and elegantly, lifted by a palpable acidity and buoyed by spicy touches in excellent balance. the youthful feel masks a richness and complexity that reveals itself subtly and slowly. great length.

20.5% AbV; bottled in 2016.
Spirits
N.V. Bou Barroeta Gran Pisco Luxstelle Chile, Atacama, Valle de Huasco
95 points
needs time in the glass for the alcohol to dissipate enough to appreciate… where it shows light amber with greenish and golden glints and pronounced legs. woody aromas emanate from the glass and are accented by notes of cherimoya, lemon, cantaloupe, and clove. hot but fairly smooth in the mouth, woody flavours give way to candied bitter orange, quince, caramel and a hint of vanilla. spice notes grow in intensity into the very long finish that only hints of sweetness.

quite likely the most distinguished aged Pisco from Chile – certainly the case of all i've tasted.

50% AbV; Moscatels blend from Huasco, fermented and then distilled
in copper; nine years of ageing in American oak barrels.
Spirits
N.V. Delamain Grande Champagne Cognac Vesper XO France, Cognac, Grande Champagne Cognac
96 points
deep amber colour in the glass and lovely legs on the swirl. the nose begins with wood and sweet leather then opens to bitter orange and caramelised nuts permeated by white flowers and even violets. incredibly smooth entry with gentle fruit and floral notes melding to the more intense nutty and dried fruit flavours. woody and spicy overtones add to the layers of complexity on display. amazing length and intoxicating quincy whiffs that remain in the empty glass…

40% AbV; all Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie aged for 30-35 years in Limousin barrels prior to blending; aged a further two years for the blend to harmonise; prior to bottling, cask strength is down-proofed with 15% AbV cognac instead of water so as to preserve the concentration of flavours.
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