Surprisingly dark in colour and coming across as advanced, though this was still a great wine in and of itself. It just seemed more mature than I would have expected for a 2012. The nose initially shows a burnished, stone fruit quality, even though there is still lots of riesling-driven fruit aromatics and flavours. We put it in a decanter -- I think that was the right move, as this actually became more shapely as it got more air. The minerality and brightness gained strength, and the last sips were best.

I'm actually surprised at the dearth of notes on this wine, and the mere 32 bottles recorded as of right now. Though maybe if memory serves, 2013 Morey was a short crop. Anyway, this was absolutely brilliant. I loved the way the red fruit was in full display, with an exuberant blend of Morey spice as well. The Lignier opulence balances nicely with the high-acid red-fruited bent of the vintage, yielding a gorgeously proportioned bottle of red Burgundy. I'll be on the lookout for some.

Not as intensely expressive as the last bottle of this I had, but man this is a seriously killer bottle of Reynard from a relatively suspect Rhone vintage. The larger scale of Reynard works wonders here, as it gives this weight and concentration, while the cooler vintage gives this lift and freshness. Bottles like this reinforce in my mind the fact that Thierry Allemand is unequivocally one of the best active winemakers in all of France these days.

I'll be the first to admit that I really didn't think this was that compelling a wine right at the get-go. Lots of blood and iron (and that never really went away) with a somewhat thin texture and a bit of an ungainly disposition. But this picked up weight over the course of the evening (we never decanted it, just poured it out of the bottle). It also helped to have some beef alongside. Rustic, meaty, and gamey, on the palate this was bloody and saline. I would have loved to see a few more degrees of fruit, but that is likely a tall order for an almost 50-year-old syrah, even if it is Hermitage. The oldest Chave I've had the pleasure to try, and a sound bottle at that. I want to also add a note that this was one of the first times where I felt that a bottle of Chave really shot up in quality with air. Usually, they are stellar straight out of the gate.

From half-bottle. This showed a lot better than a pour from a few months ago. Opulent, oily, and thick, the way old school Yquem from the Count ought to have been. Generous amounts of peach and apricot, with plenty of botrytis spice as well. Really impressive stuff, and of course a perfect night cap for a list of absolutely stellar wines.