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Nick A's 2011 Burgundy Horizontal (Table 2)
Noizé, London
Tasted October 12, 2023 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 121 views
Introduction
Chapeau to Nick A for convening another in this sequence. I found myself enjoying the wines but not thinking that I'd go out and back fill further.
Flight 1 - Gougères and Cheddar (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2011 Laherte Frères Champagne Extra Brut Les Vignes d’Autrefois
89 points
Nose that hints strongly at the low dosage of this wine, there is some cut Cox apple and a little quinine. Palate is dry and refined, right at the finish there is a little mandarin segment. Pure Meunier and an enjoyable and cerebral start to proceedings.
Flight 2 - Poached Haddock, Onion Bhaji, Frisée and Curry Sauce (2 notes)
White
2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
92 points
Love this. On pouring there is a modicum of reduction but this soon clears to reveal some lemon barley water, a touch of smoke and some hazelnut on an intriguing nose. With time some some pomegranate husk. Palate is fresh and beautifully acidic. A lick of lime oil caresses the palate a full 15 seconds after swallowing.
White
2013 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
91 points
This has a little more gras on the nose than its flight mate. Some steely minerality and a little sage. With air some chicken roasting juices too. This accompanies the food very well and is a very pleasant drop.
Flight 3 - Open Lasagne of Pheasant, Wild Mushroom, Cep Foam (2 notes)
Red
2010 Domaine Joliet Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière
90 points
Sampled with a set of 2011s. There is a lifted red fruitedness to the nose here. Some banana leaf sweetness, some pomegranate and a little smoke. Palate is tight and youthful with a charming pepperiness. Has at least 5 years ahead of it.
Red
2011 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot
90 points
This starts out a little funky with some fermented strawberry shortcake, but some air sees a more classical red fruited character come together on the nose. Palate is a little more on the darker fruit with some spiced damsons and ripe raspberries with a little ground black pepper.
Flight 4 - Pigeon Pithivier, Potato Rosti, Hispi Cabbage, Red Wine Jus (3 notes)
Red
2011 Arnaud Ente Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
92 points
Rose petal, lingonberry jam reduction, oxtail and a little greenness that reminds me of celery. Really grows in the glass. Palate has joyous, crunchy (and slightly lifted) red fruits, a little pepperiness and great length. Really works well with the food.
Red
2011 Francois Gay Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières
90 points
A little behind the two Volnays in this flight, this is an honest, red fruited crowd-pleaser. There's a little tomato leaf savouriness to the nose. Palate is a lighter style than the Volnays but well balanced and mouth coating.
Red
2011 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets
Another lovely drop, someone on the table correctly suggests blackcurrant chewits on the nose. They're right and some chocolate coated cranberries too. With air a smoky Bakewell character emerges. Palate is long and brooding. After 20 mins in the glass there's a suggestion of coffee and walnut sponge on the palate.
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Comment
Flight 5 - Comté and Époisses (3 notes)
Red
2011 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
90 points
Sweet chestnut and damson nose with some faint hints of cinnamon. Palate take a while to open out but does with time and is a great foil for the food.
Red
2011 Maison Sylvain Loichet Clos Vougeot
flawed
This divides opinion; there are some unusual notes on the nose including salted popcorn, Frazzles and something a little rubbery. Palate really not right too. This isn't just bottle stink, and persists. Shame.
Red
2011 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières
93 points
My favourite wine of the night; this is dark and brooding, damsons and smoke are complemented by some subtle complementary notes. There is sweetness that reminds me of grilled banana with brown sugar and something nutty too, almost like a pickled walnut. Palate rich and long. Chapeau.
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Comment
Flight 6 - Remaining Époisses (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2011 Domaine des Petits Quarts (Godineau) Bonnezeaux
89 points
Pleasant end to the evening. There is a butterscotch richness to the nose and some lemon oil on the palate. Works well with the Époisses.
Closing
Thanks for my table mates for their excellent wines and company and to team Noizé for the excellent food and service, for me the food a notch up from the last couple of visits.