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Nick's 2011 Burgundies
Noizé
Tasted October 12, 2023 by oenanthe with 101 views
Introduction
Checking in on the, ahem, 'weak' 2011 vintage. Green, lean and mean, or in fact a lot better than is perceived? Let's find out at with some nice food at Noizé.
Flight 1 - Fizz to start (1 note)
Cheddar Gougeres
White - Sparkling
2011 Laherte Frères Champagne Extra Brut Les Vignes d’Autrefois
88 points
Very fine mousse, really great. Sourdough bread and bruised ripe apples that also retain crispness, but any sweetness is replaced by a sherried note on the palate. It isn’t oxidised per se, but that could be where it is headed so not one to keep. It’s quite sour which makes it very refreshing, but perhaps not a quaffer because of this.
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Flight 2 - Whites (2 notes)
Poached Haddock, Onion bhaji, Frisée
White
2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
94 points
Strongly reductive nose which dissipates after about 20 minutes. Lovely sharp citrus, lime, and apple peel. Opens up with time, becomes more giving, but it is still a very linear wine, clean and precise with a lengthy finish. Very classy indeed. It’s when you drink white wine like this that you realise that most of what you normally drink is just a cheap imitation. A real treat!
White
2013 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
93 points
In perfect shape, perhaps a shade darker than the Puligny despite being younger. This is in the modern style, without that buttery richness, but it still has some weight to it and it goes really well with the food. Balanced and very appealing, apple and lemon blend seamlessly with sun-baked rocks. Excellent.
Flight 3 - Cote de Nuits 1 (2 notes)
Open Lasagna of Pheasant and Wild Mushrooms
Red
2010 Domaine Joliet Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière
89 points
Medium red. A medicinal quality to the nose and palate, with smoked meat, toast and a light green pepper hit. This was our ringer being 2010 instead of 2011, but I think served blind I would have confused this with the 2011 G-C in the flight. Quite sharp acidity, and for some reason my notes say pine needles which I am sure made sense at the time but in the clear light of day I am finding rather perplexing.
Red
2011 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot
90 points
Medium dark red, more immediate appeal than the Fixin alongside. Black cherry and olive tapenade, beautifully smooth, the purity and completeness of the Gevrey fruit coming through loud and clear. If this is 2011 I want more vintages like this, it’s great.
Flight 4 - Cote de Beaune (3 notes)
Pigeon Pithivier, Potato Rösti, Hispi Cabbage
Red
2011 Arnaud Ente Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
93 points
Fresh and sweet, wood smoke and meadow flowers, delicate and pretty. There is some reduction to start, but this is simply wonderful wine that hits the right notes everywhere. The red fruit is on the darker end of the spectrum, pure and refined, but without being high-toned or over the top in any way, it’s just classy wine.
Red
2011 Francois Gay Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières
90 points
Beautiful nose that at first hints of an epic battle with the other two in the flight. Floral and spicy, earthy undertones, I could get stuck into this. It doesn’t quite manage to pull it off in the balance of things, showing some rusticity on the palate where the two Volnay are clearly more polished and accomplished, but it is a really credible wine that delivers in spades. Genuine red burgundy that wears its heart on its sleeve, an appellation that I really enjoy.
Red
2011 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets
93 points
Hint of reduction to start, then a nose to die for. Just a wrap me up and bury me in it kind of nose. On the palate opens up with cranberry, black raspberry, olives and bay leaf, and a smoothness and elegance that is simply wonderful. This I think is the best of the flight by a whisker. Somehow it feels more youthful, bright and airy, doing everything it needs to without expending any effort at all. Top notch.
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Flight 5 - Cote de Nuits 2 (3 notes)
Fromage
Red
2011 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
91 points
Dark to medium red. Lovely nose, rich, truffley and dark. Refined and svelte on the palate. For a village offering in a modest vintage this is so good. Can you imagine what the cru are like in a good year? I have to sadly! Initially the air brings it to life, lovely cherry and damson, but I felt that it faded a short time after opening. Time to drink up but you will undoubtedly enjoy the experience.
Red
2011 Maison Sylvain Loichet Clos Vougeot
88 points
Strongly and stubbornly reductive, smoked candy, popcorn, and salt spray on the nose. It’s a bit off-putting as it lingers, but perhaps it just needed longer than we gave it, or a decant. The palate is a much surer showing, quite dense and structured with smoked meat and earth.
Red
2011 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières
93 points
Subdued nose I felt, less immediately exuberant than the Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée. On the palate it’s smooth with almost no evidence of tannins, cool fruited, dark and really elegant. Mesmerising stuff, it grows and grows with air, and there is a silken quality threaded through it, completely disarming. In short it’s perfectly ready and highly delicious, and I wish I had a lot more.
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Flight 6 - Sweet to finish (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2011 Domaine des Petits Quarts (Godineau) Bonnezeaux
87 points
Burnt toffee, vanilla, glue, rubber, seaweed, salt spray and the dregs of tinto coffee. A heady mixture! Small sips only, I wish I'd saved some cheese for this but unfortunately I'd already scoffed it. A very interesting wine but at this stage of the evening I was glad it was shared!
Closing
As is frequently the case, discount supposed lesser vintages at your peril. Good producers rarely get it wrong irrespective of the weather.