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Tasting Of DuMol Wines
The Wine Summit – Post Hotel, Lake Louise
Tasted May 30, 2008 by Hank Gillespie with 827 views
Introduction
Tasting conducted by founder/proprietor Kerry Murphy, and Winemaker Andy Smith. Murphy’s founding partner, Michael Verlander, did not attend. Andy Smith has been making the DuMol wines for the past 10 years.
Kerry Murphy feels this has been a magical story – a lot of luck perhaps – but the wines have achieved strong acclaim since the winery founded 11 years ago.
This Sonoma based winery produces 9 wines from Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Carneros appellations – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Viognier. Much of the early vintages featured Dutton Family fruit, and this has expanded to now include cintracts with specific vineyard growers and the winery’s own estate holdings. Individual wines are named after family members or friends.
The objective of Andy Smith is balance, where he is seeking a combination of power and finesse in the wines.
We tasted four Chardonnays, two Pinot Noirs and two Syrahs.
Flight 1 - CHARDONNAY (4 notes)
The 2002 Chardonnays were both preferred to the 2005’s, but that may have something to do with the bottle age. Liked both of these 2002’s very much.
White
2005 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe
From Kent Ritchie Vineyard – 33 year vines – Wente clone – 3 tons/acre yield – 2/3 malo fermentation. Aged in barrel sur lie – 60% new French oak.
Light yellow straw; aromas showing fresh tree blossoms, along with tree fruits; acids show well on the palate – lemony citrus; clean – pear and nectarine flavours; acidity shines; plenty of solid structure – some oak showing; it’s a young wine waiting on harmony of its elements; acidity carries through the finish, as does the persistent fruit. Would like to try this wine in a couple of years, but it appears to have the makings of an excellent wine.
Light yellow straw; aromas showing fresh tree blossoms, along with tree fruits; acids show well on the palate – lemony citrus; clean – pear and nectarine flavours; acidity shines; plenty of solid structure – some oak showing; it’s a young wine waiting on harmony of its elements; acidity carries through the finish, as does the persistent fruit. Would like to try this wine in a couple of years, but it appears to have the makings of an excellent wine.
White
2002 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe
Also from Kent Ritchie Vineyard. A chance to see what a couple of years in bottle will add to this wine.
Slightly darker than the 2005 – yellow straw; softer nose – more ripe fruit; aromas of peach and some pineapple; softer on the palate – round and rich, with acidity not as pronounced; more flowing – has taken on more harmony; rich, full, deeper flavours – oak has blended in nicely; long attractive finish.
Went back to this later, and the aromas and flavours have taken on more intensity – focused and deep. A very attractive wine !
Slightly darker than the 2005 – yellow straw; softer nose – more ripe fruit; aromas of peach and some pineapple; softer on the palate – round and rich, with acidity not as pronounced; more flowing – has taken on more harmony; rich, full, deeper flavours – oak has blended in nicely; long attractive finish.
Went back to this later, and the aromas and flavours have taken on more intensity – focused and deep. A very attractive wine !
White
2005 DuMOL Chardonnay Isobel
Sourced from the Charles Heintz Vineyard – vines aged 24 years – barrel aged sur lie for 16 months in 58% new French oak. Production – 734 cses.
Pale yellow – just a hint of green in the colour; some mineral on the nose – also a bit of pineapple, together with lemony citrus; a touch of hoey frames the fruit – full bodied – round fleshy fruit – mostly peach; carries through the finish, which tops out bone dry. This wine seems to change from being rich and powerful to more finesse as it finishes – more delicate features on the palate, likely brought about by the mineral and dry finish.
Pale yellow – just a hint of green in the colour; some mineral on the nose – also a bit of pineapple, together with lemony citrus; a touch of hoey frames the fruit – full bodied – round fleshy fruit – mostly peach; carries through the finish, which tops out bone dry. This wine seems to change from being rich and powerful to more finesse as it finishes – more delicate features on the palate, likely brought about by the mineral and dry finish.
White
2002 DuMOL Chardonnay Isobel
Similar approach to making this wine as the 2005.
Darker straw in colour; much more complex nose, with more of the mineral showing along with peach and pear fruit; clean – very good acidity; noted some mealy flavours initially; round and fleshy, but evolving character here; superb harmony; runs deep on the palate – ripe pear fruit comes through well in the flavours; cozy finish than goes on and on. Impressive !
Darker straw in colour; much more complex nose, with more of the mineral showing along with peach and pear fruit; clean – very good acidity; noted some mealy flavours initially; round and fleshy, but evolving character here; superb harmony; runs deep on the palate – ripe pear fruit comes through well in the flavours; cozy finish than goes on and on. Impressive !
Flight 2 - PINOT NOIR (2 notes)
Red
2005 DuMOL Pinot Noir Ryan
Blend from 88% Widdoes Vineyard and 12% from Abbott Vineyard. Aged 14 months in 60% new French oak barrels – then bottled unfined and unfiltered. No press wine included. Production – 403 cases.
Medium ruby – appears full on swirling; scented nose – fresh blossoms and cherry –a bit intoxicating – some oak; chewy texture – excellent acidity – concentrated – good extract; not yet balanced, but heading in that direction; needs time to allow the structure to soften and become less awkward; flavours of black cherry and a touch of oak; attractive – fruit is persistent on the finish. Another year in bottle should round out the edges.
Medium ruby – appears full on swirling; scented nose – fresh blossoms and cherry –a bit intoxicating – some oak; chewy texture – excellent acidity – concentrated – good extract; not yet balanced, but heading in that direction; needs time to allow the structure to soften and become less awkward; flavours of black cherry and a touch of oak; attractive – fruit is persistent on the finish. Another year in bottle should round out the edges.
Red
2002 DuMOL Pinot Noir Ryan
Lighter in colour than the 2005 – perhaps tending toward a garnet hue; penetrating, warm nose – fine complexity – notes of roasted coffee – hazelnuts – dark cherry; elegantly styled – shows fine acidity; more of a cherry preserve flavours – a slight note of bitterness on the edge; finishes much shorter than the 2005; overall comes across as a lesser wine than the 2005, with its potential.
Flight 3 - SYRAH (2 notes)
Red
2005 DuMOL Syrah Eddie's Patch
Sourced from the Hoppe-Kelly Vineyard – a sharply terraced vineyard overlooking Santa Rosa – dark red volcanic soil vines are 9 years of age. Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Production – 399 cases from 16 barrels.
Quite dark – purple ruby with a pink rim; aromas jump out of the glass – a medley of raspberry, cherry, blueberry, together with a bit of oak – touch of pepper; on the palate – round and mouthfilling – mostly blackberry and black currant fruit; a zippy touch brings out the berry fruit – gives the wine a lift entering the finish, where the sweet edged blackberry carries the day. At this stage – mostly power – not all that much finesse.
Quite dark – purple ruby with a pink rim; aromas jump out of the glass – a medley of raspberry, cherry, blueberry, together with a bit of oak – touch of pepper; on the palate – round and mouthfilling – mostly blackberry and black currant fruit; a zippy touch brings out the berry fruit – gives the wine a lift entering the finish, where the sweet edged blackberry carries the day. At this stage – mostly power – not all that much finesse.
Red
2002 DuMOL Syrah Eddie's Patch
Lighter ruby colour – rim tending toward amber; some vegetal character coming in the nose, but it runs off a bit with swirling – now just a moderate mix of slightly off aromas marring the fruit; fuzzy texture – with things going all over the place regarding the flavours; couldn’t shake the slightly herbaceous character; lengthy finish – some chocolate notes. Was this sample from an “off bottle”? Definitely not an attractive wine.