Champagne Showdown: All three bottles showed better than expected. Dom Perignon wins with 97pts - a symphony of stature, purity, and layered complexity. Its vibrant mix of fresh citrus and fruit elegantly intertwines with mature notes of burnt sugar and honey, all supported by a vivid acid line and a mineral backbone adding extra dimension. This DP is poised for further evolution over the next decade. Comtes de Champagne, at 95pts, impresses with its signature blend of brioche and butter, harmonizing with both fresh and baked fruit nuances, despite a bouquet tinged with cardboard hints. Cristal, scoring 93pts, initially reveals its age through oxidation, yet remarkably rejuvenates with air, gaining freshness, depth, and a captivating saline spine.

Decanting: Good from the go. No extensive decanting needed but a bit of air improved the experience.

Champagne Showdown: All three bottles showed better than expected. Dom Perignon wins with 97pts - a symphony of stature, purity, and layered complexity. Its vibrant mix of fresh citrus and fruit elegantly intertwines with mature notes of burnt sugar and honey, all supported by a vivid acid line and a mineral backbone adding extra dimension. This DP is poised for further evolution over the next decade. Comtes de Champagne, at 95pts, impresses with its signature blend of brioche and butter, harmonizing with both fresh and baked fruit nuances, despite a bouquet tinged with cardboard hints. Cristal, scoring 93pts, initially reveals its age through oxidation, yet remarkably rejuvenates with air, gaining freshness, depth, and a captivating saline spine.

Decanting: This needed quite a bit of air, extensive slow-ox is advised (2h?).

Champagne Showdown: All three bottles showed better than expected. Dom Perignon wins with 97pts - a symphony of stature, purity, and layered complexity. Its vibrant mix of fresh citrus and fruit elegantly intertwines with mature notes of burnt sugar and honey, all supported by a vivid acid line and a mineral backbone adding extra dimension. This DP is poised for further evolution over the next decade. Comtes de Champagne, at 95pts, impresses with its signature blend of brioche and butter, harmonizing with both fresh and baked fruit nuances, despite a bouquet tinged with cardboard hints. Cristal, scoring 93pts, initially reveals its age through oxidation, yet remarkably rejuvenates with air, gaining freshness, depth, and a captivating saline spine.

Decanting: Good from the go. No extensive decanting needed.

Three whites. The Laville Haut Brion (96 pts) is incredibly impressive: so young and vibrant, with a perfect balance, intense and expressive, all centered around a rainbow of highly precise fresh tropical fruit notes. This seems to be an immortal wine, highly impressive but would need a bit more complexity to reach the next level. The Y d‘Yquem 1985 (94+pts) was added to the 1983 lineup as we were one white short, and it didn‘t disappoint. A complex dry Sauternes, with all the telltale aromatics and lots of freshness, missing just a bit of a cleaner, more expressive nose to reach an even higher score. The Pavillon Blanc (92pts) is more evolved than the others and shows less precise and clean but has a good acidic spine and lots of minerality giving additional lift.

Decanting: Not decanted, no decanting necessary.

Three whites. The Laville Haut Brion (96 pts) is incredibly impressive: so young and vibrant, with a perfect balance, intense and expressive, all centered around a rainbow of highly precise fresh tropical fruit notes. This seems to be an immortal wine, highly impressive but would need a bit more complexity to reach the next level. The Y d‘Yquem 1985 (94+pts) was added to the 1983 lineup as we were one white short, and it didn‘t disappoint. A complex dry Sauternes, with all the telltale aromatics and lots of freshness, missing just a bit of a cleaner, more expressive nose to reach an even higher score. The Pavillon Blanc (92pts) is more evolved than the others and shows less precise and clean but has a good acidic spine and lots of minerality giving additional lift.

Decanting: Not decanted, no decanting necessary.

Three whites. The Laville Haut Brion (96 pts) is incredibly impressive: so young and vibrant, with a perfect balance, intense and expressive, all centered around a rainbow of highly precise fresh tropical fruit notes. This seems to be an immortal wine, highly impressive but would need a bit more complexity to reach the next level. The Y d‘Yquem 1985 (94+pts) was added to the 1983 lineup as we were one white short, and it didn‘t disappoint. A complex dry Sauternes, with all the telltale aromatics and lots of freshness, missing just a bit of a cleaner, more expressive nose to reach an even higher score. The Pavillon Blanc (92pts) is more evolved than the others and shows less precise and clean but has a good acidic spine and lots of minerality giving additional lift.

Decanting: Not decanted, no decanting necessary

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: Intense and expressive from the first sniff to the long finish. Full, classic Pessac tobacco galore, dark ripe fruit and alongside some earthy minerality and black truffles notes. No hard edges anymore but with good tension and freshness. Balanced and complete.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption which worked wonders for all wines.

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: This had a pretty subpar cork and was hence much more evolved than it should have been. Yet that brought us a glimps into the future: it showed layered with those fine malty notes you usually only get with much older wines. Additionally, some smoke notes mixing with minerality and dried dark berries. While the structure did hold up, the wine was not 100% clean but got better and better with air.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption. This needed more air in the glass, but as mentioned above - not a representative bottle.

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: The 1983 Latour is a textbook example of Pauillac at its finest. It boasts an imposing structure, yet retains the quintessential elegance of Bordeaux. The palate is awash with pure cassis, underscored by a profound presence of graphite and pencil shavings that epitomize minerality. Layered within are subtle herbal and earthy nuances, with just a whisper of tobacco. What really sets this wine apart is its mineral purity - it’s a standout feature. After 40 years, this Latour has reached perfect harmony. Wow!

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption, which seemed perfect for the wine.

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: This was one of the best bottle of the 1983 Palmer I had to date. Intense, expressive from start to finish, superb fruit core forming a perfect balance with some burnt sugar, tobacco notes and all wrapped around an intensive and defining spine of minerality. While the Margaux 1983 in the next glass was subtle, elegant and almost Pinot-esque, this Palmer showed a more concentrated and and fuller-bodied side of the appelation, while still remaing highly elegant.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption, which seemed perfect for the wine.

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: This was the best, most open 1983 Margaux I’ve had to date. Medium expressive dark fruit, earthy minerality on the nose. Screams elegance. On the palate this is more intense and more open. There are layers and layers of fine ripe dark and still some red fruit notes. Lots of esrthy notes and crushed rocks, some herbs and smoke notes. This is so elegant, light and airy, almost Pinot-esque in its stature and still with lots of intensity. While it is drinking wonderfully today, this can continue to improve for a few more years and more tertiary aromas coming forward and adding further to the complexity. 95/96pts

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption, which seemed perfect for the wine.

Six Bordeaux titans. Each bottle exceeded our expectations, showcasing classic Bordeaux structures, bursting with freshness, tension, and an invigorating verve. The perfect harmony of tertiary aromas and a robust fruit core was mesmerizing. 1983 has produced some great wines drinking in their prime today. For me, the Latour, scoring a stellar 97 points, was the standout star. Yet, by a narrow margin, the group’s heart went to the Cheval Blanc.

TN: In a flight with the Margaux 1983 (96pts) and Palmer 1983 (95pts), this Cheval was the most seductive and ripe wine with intense, ripe dark and dark red fruit, fine chocolate notes, crushed rocks, herbs and earthy tones as well as intriguing tobacco aromas. The precision is good but could have been even better. The structural frame is impeccable with molten tannins, good tension and freshness and an airy texture. A winner! 95/96pts.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 5-6 hours prior to consumption, which seemed perfect for the wine.

Dominus vs Opus 1983. The Dominus (93pts) is as Bordeaux-esque as a wine can be, though it is not showing that much complexity. Nevertheless, its debut vintage is noteworthy, especially considering 1983’s challenges in Napa Valley. The Opus (90pts) couldn‘t hide the difficult vintage that well, showing a bit simple, albeit without fault.

TN: The nose was muted and even with air didn’t display much. A bit more open on the palate some faint fruit notes, a bit of earthy minerality, but without much depth or anything exciting. Still intact structural frame, good freshness but with a rather short finish. Not a bad wine, but nothing to write home about either. 89/90pts

Decanting: Double decanted a few hours before consumption. Maybe more air would have unlocked a bit more aromas. I would try it with two+ hours in a decanter.

Dominus vs Opus 1983. The Dominus (93pts) is as Bordeaux-esque as a wine can be, though it is not showing that much complexity. Nevertheless, its debut vintage is noteworthy, especially considering 1983’s challenges in Napa Valley. The Opus (90pts) couldn‘t hide the difficult vintage that well, showing a bit simple, albeit without fault.

TN: Medium- expressive nose with dark fruit and minerality. On the palate more expressive with intense minerality, a still intact nice and intense black fruit core, tobacco, and herbs. The tannins are fine but still with some edges, good freshness and tension, no excess weight. This is certainly not a very deep wine but the minerality core and the clear black fruit is a throwback to classic Bordeaux with that aristocratic feel.

Decanting: Double decanted a few hours before consumption. It needed the air and opened further in the glass. I would decant it for at least two hours.

Great bottles of the 1983 Grange can drink close to perfection these days. This bottle never fully got there. Upon opening it was closed and muted and even showed signs of age, with 6+ hours in the decanter it got better and better but never reached the absolute heights of the best bottle I’ve had a year ago (rated 99pts), which had a touch higher purity, weightlessness, and more pronounced pure, Chambolle-like red fruit. Still, this was an excellent bottle.

TN: This Grange exhibits a vibrant array of aromas - intense and multi-layered from the nose, across the palate, to a prolonged, expansive finish. It offers a striking contrast to the 1983 Dominus/Opus, also tasted. The profile includes bright red berries, darker fruits, and an abundance of spices and herbs. It's the most mature 1983 Grange I've encountered, with aging notes seamlessly melded into the profusion of other scents. The structure is finely tannic, complemented by excellent freshness. Its texture is more velvet-like than satin, with substantial yet not overwhelming density and weight. The balance and harmony are impressive.

Decanting: Extensive aeration is key - a minimum of 6-7 hours in a decanter brings out its full potential.

Three Italian heavyweights side by side. My favorite was the ethereal, vibrant Gaja Costa Russi (96pts). Perfect elegance, light as a feather, exceptional precision and with a persisting, pure fruit core. Gaja in a classic, not modern style. If only all Barolos would age as gracefully as this bottle. The Soldera (94pts) unfolded in a kaleidoscope of complexity, dense and demanding, requiring more time than we had to fully appreciate its multifaceted nature, however, slightly tinged with an elusive aging note (a mere hint of soy sauce). Meanwhile, the Pepe Montepulciano VV (92pts), a recent cellar release, showed incredibly young, displaying an intense, almost overpowering fruit core challenging to decipher fully. This wine, too, needs more time than we had to be fully savored.

TN: Intensely vibrant fruit aroma leaps from the glass. On the palate, it’s a symphony of ripe, bold cherries, other bright red fruit, exuding youth and freshness. The dominant fruity notes leave little room for tertiary aromas, though there’s a hint of funk and some herbs. Structurally sound, with a likely hint of volatile acidity. This Vecchie Vigne version appears remarkably youthful, suggesting it’s decades away from its prime.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 7-8 hours prior to consumption. I guess a bottle like this would have benefited from 2-4 hours of decanting.

Three Italian heavyweights side by side. My favorite was the ethereal, vibrant Gaja Costa Russi (96pts). Perfect elegance, light as a feather, exceptional precision and with a persisting, pure fruit core. Gaja in a classic, not modern style. If only all Barolos would age as gracefully as this bottle. The Soldera (94pts) unfolded in a kaleidoscope of complexity, dense and demanding, requiring more time than we had to fully appreciate its multifaceted nature, however, slightly tinged with an elusive aging note (a mere hint of soy sauce). Meanwhile, the Pepe Montepulciano VV (92pts), a recent cellar release, showed incredibly young, displaying an intense, almost overpowering fruit core challenging to decipher fully. This wine, too, needs more time than we had to be fully savored.

TN: This is quite impressive, especially the incredible aromatic density, which is wrapped in an elegant frame. It reveals layers of aromas, from dark to bright red berries, all exuding purity and freshness. Earthy notes are abundant, accompanied by a diverse range of herbs, tobacco, and mushroom hints. The structure is outstanding, with fine tannins and lively freshness. Yet, from all the stories I expected this wine to be much lighter, more Burgundian in it’s feel at the age of 40. The only slight issue is a trace of soy sauce on the nose, which restricts my score to 93pts. However, a tasting a few weeks later was even better, lacking these aging notes, meriting a higher score of 96pts.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 7-8 hours prior to consumption. The bottle a few weeks later got 3h in a decanter and showed cleaner and a touch more elegant.

Three Italian heavyweights side by side. My favorite was the ethereal, vibrant Gaja Costa Russi (96pts). Perfect elegance, light as a feather, exceptional precision and with a persisting, pure fruit core. Gaja in a classic, not modern style. If only all Barolos would age as gracefully as this bottle. The Soldera (94pts) unfolded in a kaleidoscope of complexity, dense and demanding, requiring more time than we had to fully appreciate its multifaceted nature, however, slightly tinged with an elusive aging note (a mere hint of soy sauce). Meanwhile, the Pepe Montepulciano VV (92pts), a recent cellar release, showed incredibly young, displaying an intense, almost overpowering fruit core challenging to decipher fully. This wine, too, needs more time than we had to be fully savored.

TN: My expectations for this wine were modest, yet it emerged as one of the stars of the tasting. Its ethereal nature, lightness, elegance, and sheer purity of flavors were standout features. The heart of the wine is intense, fresh red berries, enveloped in nuances of rose petals, herbs, tobacco, and exquisite minerality. These intense, layered aromas are delivered with extraordinary finesse, as if crafted with the finest brushstrokes. The ethereal structural frame is to die for. Impressively, it shows no signs of decline. Truly a ‘wow’ experience.

Decanting: Quick double decant to remove the sediment 7-8 hours prior to consumption, which seemed perfect.

To conclude the tasting, we had three sweet wines. By then, I had reached my limit with wine and didn’t take detailed notes. Unfortunately, the Yquem (NR), which could have been a highlight of this vintage, suffered from cork taint. The other two, the Rieussec (91pts) with a slight wet cardboard note affecting an otherwise enjoyable experience, and the Tokaji Wine Trust Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos (88pts), which I found too cloying for my liking, were solid but not extraordinary, especially so late in the tasting.

To conclude the tasting, we had three sweet wines. By then, I had reached my limit with wine and didn’t take detailed notes. Unfortunately, the Yquem (NR), which could have been a highlight of this vintage, suffered from cork taint. The other two, the Rieussec (91pts) with a slight wet cardboard note affecting an otherwise enjoyable experience, and the Tokaji Wine Trust Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos (88pts), which I found too cloying for my liking, were solid but not extraordinary, especially so late in the tasting.

To conclude the tasting, we had three sweet wines. By then, I had reached my limit with wine and didn’t take detailed notes. Unfortunately, the Yquem (NR), which could have been a highlight of this vintage, suffered from cork taint. The other two, the Rieussec (91pts) with a slight wet cardboard note affecting an otherwise enjoyable experience, and the Tokaji Wine Trust Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos (88pts), which I found too cloying for my liking, were solid but not extraordinary, especially so late in the tasting.