Solid stuff. No discernible reduction, good chardonnay breadth, and generally a pleasant roundness to it. Drinking very well now, though certainly there is no rush to open a bottle.

Disgorged August 2021, 3.8 g/L dosage. 76% 2017, 24% 2016. Very nice richness here; unlike most rosé Champagne I feel like the red fruit actually does seem to shine through a bit, and I find that the dosage here really does fill this up on the palate. Certainly my style of champagne, especially in the context of growers.

2015 base, disgorged March 2021. No. 110. I liked this a fair bit more than a 2014 base Enfers around a year ago. I wonder if that bottle had just gotten lost in the fray. In any case, this is full and rounded, with a deep concentration and weight, and of course there is a distinct vinous, still wine quality here, that makes it almost better to drink this with a generous amount of air at a warmer temperature than most Champagne. This has great weight and density, and there is an almost oily minerality to this that I really enjoy.

Tasted next to the Croux et Petits-Croux; for my palate this was the weaker wine, though we're talking a very rarified, high bar here. On the nose, no overt reduction whatsoever. There is sweet yellow fruit, and some phenol notes, both of which carry through on the palate. It seems to me as if this has sat on the skins for a little longer, and you get that sort of extraction on the palate, and there is a slight bitter note here that really accentuates that quality. A long mineral finish, with subdued but ever-present acidity. What made this pair of Guffens wines stand out in my mind is the quiet, almost zen-like quality to everything here. Nothing is loud, and these are almost sedate wines in comparison to the electric excitement of all the high-acid wines in vogue these days, but everything is there, and in the right place.

One of the best white Burgundies I've tasted in a while. The picture in my mind that this wine draws is the rock garden at Ryōan-ji (which is one of the most beautiful scenes ever created by humanity). This is an incredibly quiet and subdued wine, where everything is spoken in hushed tones. No reduction on the nose, just quiet, pure golden fruit. Like its stablemate tonight, there is nothing loud and screechy here at all. Everything is subdued, quiet, but in perfect harmony. Zen-like, I would venture. At the same time, there is no loss of complexity here. This is a contemplative wine, and distinctly different than most other white Burgundy I've had in a long, long time.

Sage Society bottling. The nose doesn't have quite the spice that I would expect from Dujac, but there is certainly ample fruit (more black than red) here. It's a bit of a burlier Chambolle, perhaps owing to the vintage, and also likely due to its proximity to Bonnes Mares too. Air certainly helped loosen this wine a bit, and it did get more expressive, but you definitely get a sense of the weight here. For my palate, I will say that I prefer the Gruenchers, which -- and though it may be basic to say this -- comes off a little more Dujac-y than this. Nonetheless, it was a real treat to open and try one of these Dujac one-offs like the 2014 Chaffots, though unlike the Chaffots, this was actually vinifié, élevé et mis en bouteille par Dujac.

Absolutely stellar syrah. The nose is all blood and smoke and brine, the way syrah ought to be. It is delicate and perfumed, but at the same time feral and wild (but perhaps slightly acclimated to human contact). On the palate, this has a surprising delicacy for all the feral qualities. The fruit is overlaid on all of this; it's sweet and ripe, showing more secondary than primary, as perhaps expected, and providing a sweet foil to all the savoury elements. The acidity doesn't play much of a role here, and the tannins are resolved, fine-grained, and very silky. Very much ready to drink now, and very much in line with a 2000 that I had last year.

It's truly hard for me to imagine how else you could make this wine better. This is easily one of the most compelling bottles of Bordeaux I've ever had, and it was one that actually pulled me back into the region after neglecting it. A cork in preternaturally good condition gave way to a nose that really just exploded out of the bottle. This was spectacular from the cork pull (and plenty of unhappy experiences with over-decanted Bordeaux last year had me decide to pop and pour this and follow it over a leisurely dinner). The nose is graphite and cedar, but overlaid with a stony minerality and fruit that still maintains vestiges of primary character. On the palate, this is surprisingly light -- though maybe lithe and supple might be a better descriptor. There is no lack of complexity -- a bit of pyrazine green that fades into sweet red and black fruit, tons of Pessac stoniness, and just a faint hint of barnyard and leather. It's really the complete package as far as Bordeaux goes. The tannins could almost be called a bit young still, and I've no doubt that this still has plenty of gas left in the tank. This is one of my favourite bottles of red Bordeaux made in my lifetime.

From half-bottle. Very dark colour, but surprisingly less intense on the botrytis than I would have expected given that colour. Only moderately sweet, with more bitter orange sort of tones. A hair simple on the palate; this doesn't have the depth of some more esteemed estates, but a very good bottle of Sauternes all the same. A little goes a long way.