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High-end Rhone Dinner at a friend's house.

Hollywood

Tasted March 26, 2024 by jfpwine with 29 views

Introduction

A few of us were hosted by a good friend, who happens to be an excellent cook. The theme was older Northern Rhône wines. One the best dinner I had this year.

Flight 1 - 1st Course (1 note)

Rajas Poblanas - Charred and sautéed poblano peppers with onion, fire roasted corn, garlic, crema and cheese. Sonora town flour tortilla

White - Sparkling
1988 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
94 points
Dark yellow gold color. Initially quite funky on the nose, but it blew off fairly quickly. Nose of ripe lemon, blood orange, apricots, mango and roasted nuts. Medium+ body, with really good acidity. Long finish.

Flight 2 - 2nd Course (4 notes)

Roasted Capon - porcini and juniper brined. 3 day dry aged. Porcini, pancetta and fennel cream sauce with Armagnac and tarragon.

White
1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
Deep gold color. Gasoline, tropical fruit and spice on the nose. Full body, quite spicy on the palate. Long finish.
White
1995 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
92 points
Medium gold color. Closed on the nose initially, but again opened up in the glass. Spice, Anise and lavender on the nose. Floral and crisp on the palate, with the acidity persisting through the long finish. Great wine.
White
1999 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
Gold color. Floral, lemon and stone fruit. Youthful palate, floral and medium- spice, great acidity and long finish. This was an excellent showing for this wine.
White
2000 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Deep gold. Very advanced, honeysuckle, slightly sweet, long finish. Likely heat damage. Bummer.

Flight 3 - 3rd Course (3 notes)

Basque style chanterelles -sautéed in demi-sel bordier, finished with grated soy and kombu cured egg yolk, shallot confit, chives and smoked maldon salt. Grilled sourdough

Red
1988 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
Garnet color with some bricking at the rim. Nose is pretty rustic, wild flowers, forest floor, red fruit, leather. Medium palate, great balance and focus with resolved tannins. Long finish. This is fully mature.
Red
1995 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
Ruby color with slight garnet. Nose is peppery, with olive, red spicy fruit and a bit rustic. Full body, great acidity and long finish. This showed much more opulent than the 1988 we had in the same flight.
Red
2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
95 points
Garnet color. The nose is quite revealing with dried red fruits, game, spice, licorice and dried herbs. The palate is quite precise and balanced, ending with an extremely long finish. A great showing for this wine, given the challenging vintage. Excellent.

Flight 4 - Intermezzo (3 notes)

The Sine Qua Non was served blind.

Red
2004 Sine Qua Non Syrah Poker Face USA, California, Central Coast
93 points
Very opaque ruby. Nose of plums, red cranberries, black pepper, leather and licorice. Plate is dense and mouth filling, resolved tannins, medium- acidity. This is quite big and opulent, yet still has balance. Ends with a long finish
Red
2004 Thierry Allemand Cornas Sans Soufre France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
95 points
Dark ruby color. The nose is precise, with white pepper, red and black fruit, leather, olives and bacon fat. The palate is precise and balanced. Extreme purity on the nose and palate, long finish. This is what Northern Rhône should taste like. Wow.
Red
2001 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Garnet color. The nose oozes rusticity, with olives, leather, iron and roasted meats. The plate is intense and balanced, with great acidity and the flavors persisting in the mouth for a while. This is a great showing for this wine.

Flight 5 - 4th Course (2 notes)

Ratatouille Confit Byaldi - Mandolined Tomato, Japanese eggplant, yellow squash and zucchini confit over a purée of slow cooked onion, red bell pepper and garlic.

Red
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
95 points
Basically showed exactly the same than when I had it 4 years ago. Deep garnet almost ruby color. Dark fruit, leather and roasted meat on on the nose. Incredibly complex. Full body, integrated tannins with a perfect balance between flavors and acidity. Goes on forever. Amazing.
Red
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
95 points
This was quite interesting to have it side by side with the 91 La Turque. Great ruby-garnet color. The nose is much more forward than the La Turque, with red and black fruit, pepper, mint, anise and rosemary. The palate is hedonistic, with fantastic balance and power. Finish goes on forever. This will age gracefully. Excellent.

Flight 6 - 5th Course (3 notes)

Braised Lamb Shoulder - With saffron and mint served over a North African couscous with olives, toasted almonds, preserved lemon and herbs. Sauce vert

Red
1990 Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Réservée France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
96 points
Garnet color. Quite rustic, with an intense nose of leather, olives and roasted meats. The palate is extremely balanced and complex, with red fruits showing through the very long finish. Great acidity and resolved tannins.
Red
1986 Raymond Trollat St. Joseph France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Unfortunately it was corked.
Red
1999 Noël Verset Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
93 points
Light garnet color. Nose of leather, olives, underbrush, and red currant. This is more savory than fruity, with great structure and balance on the palate and medium tannins. Long persistence. Quintessential Northern Rhône in style.

Flight 7 - Dessert (1 note)

Bleu de Gex - Jura semi soft blue cheese

White - Fortified
1954 Massandra South Coast White Port Ukraine, Crimea
92 points
Orange color. Nose of caramel, honey, ripe stone fruit and roasted nuts. Great acidity on the palate, almost chalky. The mineral aspect last through the finish. Quite interesting.
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