Lunch at the Williams residence
Kent, England
Tasted September 18, 2005 by Rani with 1,026 views
Introduction
With the Mahaffys (or is it Mahaffies?) on a visit to London, I found myself once more on the way to Kent. Due to some engineering work on the tracks, the train was leaving from Victoria station rather than Charing Cross, which meant I could sleep in for 10 more minutes. To my surprise, the train was not of the WWII model that we usually take, but a rather sleak, quiet train with electric doors (!) and air conditioning (!!). Britain's rail system may yet catch up with the 20th century (and yes, I know we're in the 21st).
After a few coordination calls when the train was already moving, I managed to find the others and 90 minutes or so later we were at the door of Sophie's and Nigel's pictureqsue 16th century house. Time for some wine.
Flight 1 - Aperitif wine (1 note)
White
1997 André Perret Condrieu Chery
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Dark yellow-gold. Honeydew melon, some alcohol on the nose. Dry, even savoury, with apricots and hazelnuts. A long finish, though slightly bitter.
Flight 2 - Token Whites (3 notes)
We had those with a wonderfully delicate salmon and crab mousse wrapped in leek, as well as a refreshing light pea soup.
White
1994 Henri Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé La Demoiselle de Bourgeois
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
It was interesting to try a Pouilly Fumé with some age, and this one showed well. Straw yellow, quite an amazing lychee nose. Lemony acidity, flinty and very fresh. Light bodied, with a medium finish - a really delicious wine.
White
1995 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer
France, Alsace
Dark gold. Fresh figs, basil and a hint of petrol on the nose. Nice and layered on the palate, flinty and off-dry. Nice acidity with some tropical fruit. Not as complex as the 1994 or 1993, but very good.
Flight 3 - Bordeaux (2 notes)
We started on these as the main course was on its way. Sophie's culinary wizardry became apparent when the Beef Wellington came. It was coated with walnut and coriandre stuffing, and was the best beef fillet I've had in ages - the meat tender, perfectly cooked and almost sweet in flavour. Words really can't do it justice - it was a carnivore's paradise!
Red
1998 Roc de Cambes
France, Bordeaux, Côtes de Bourg
Dark ruby. Aromas of mocha, dark berries and cloves. Some slight green pepper on the palate, and although this had plenty of fruit, it was not as oppulent as previous bottles. Some suggested slight TCA taint, which is possible but if so it was very slight indeed - still a very enjoyable wine.
Red
1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This was the best bottle of this from my cellar to date. Dark ruby and still purple at the edges. Notes of cedar, blackcurrant, cigar box and leather on the nose. Beautifully structured, with cassis, minerals tightly wound up in a silky texture, supplanted by fine powdery tannins and a long finish. Superb.
Flight 4 - Tempier flight (4 notes)
Flight 5 - Other reds... (3 notes)
The next flight came as we were moving on to cheeses. The assortment, all from La Fromagerie on Moxon St. (a superb shop) included a delicious, nutty Comte (best one I've had in years), a fantastic Stilton from Colston-Basset, a rather ripe and stinky Taupiniere and a couple of others that I can't recall...
Red
1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Sweet sweet fruit that just leap out from the glass, quite a viscous texture with plums/prunes, cinammon and caraway seeds seamlessly singing together. A very fine underlying acidity and soft tannins make this a wine I could drink all day. Excellent.
Red
1991 Brokenwood Shiraz Graveyard
Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
A cool climate Shiraz (bottle actually says "Hermitage" which says something about the style), this had a very fresh nose of red berries and flowers. Big bodied, with a fruity attack, fine tannins and medium finish. This has certainly aged gracefully. Very nice.
Red
1997 Chapel Down Epoch Reserve Kent
United Kingdom, England, Kent
This is a blend of Rondo, Dornfelder (yes, I know, don't ask...) and Pinot Noir - quite a nice colour of medium ruby, and fruity, slightly jammy nose. On the palate, however, it is like paint stripper, with razor-like acidity and unpleasant, raw tannins. Yuck.
Flight 6 - Stickies (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1995 Château Rabaud-Promis
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Well, what can I say, it's a Sauternes. Nice but not very exciting, lots of butterscotch, slightly toasted finish. Maybe with foie gras I'd have liked it more.
Closing
A fine way to spend a Sunday! Thanks again to our gracious hosts, and especially Sophie who managed to outdo herself once more with her cooking. WOTD for me were both the Pegau and Pichon-Baron - great examples of their respective appellations.
I even left armed with a bottle of 1998 Janasse VV, my prize from Nigel for some limericks a few months ago - I still don't know whether Nigel can be trusted, but he does keep his promises!
I was too drunk and well-fed to note any noteworthy anecdotes on the trip back. All I know is that I somehow made it home.
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