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Auswine Christmas offline

Barmuda, Newtown

Tasted December 6, 2002 by graemeg with 469 views

Introduction

Late notes herewith from the Sydney Christmas offline. An intimate but noisy gathering at Barmuda, our regular and wine-friendly haunt on Sydney’s Newtown strip. The theme was the usual ‘something interesting to drink’, and in attendance were Kris ‘Bacchaebabe’ & Lisa, Celia ‘PLCB’ & Peter, Andrew & Jillian, Mark P & Rebecca plus your scribe & Judith.

Flight 1 (9 notes)

White
1994 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1 Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Glowing yellow-green. Very toasty, with a splash of honey. The aromas were quite primary, in fact. On the palate it’s quite rich, with sweet fruit – I wondered if there was the faintest hint of botrytis somewhere. The acid has softened considerably, but still carries some weight. The wine is nicely balanced, with even medium weight and length. Probably near its peak – just lacks enough freshness to be a very long term wine. Very good
Red - Sparkling
1998 Hollick Sparkling Merlot Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
This has a super plummy nose with a coconut twist. On the palate it’s a little earthy with a touch of sweetness – a bit simple perhaps, but stopping short of thin. Has perhaps a slight coarseness that suggests the grapes were worked very hard to give these flavours. Reasonably persistent finish, with a nice fine bead. An interesting novelty.
White
1998 Grosset Chardonnay Piccadilly Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Piccadilly Valley
Deep yellow gold. Very developed nose – distinct caramel aromas – toffee apple was the table comment. It has some acid certainly, but I think it’s prematurely oxidised (says me, having no experience of Grosset Chardonnay). I’ll suspect dodgy storage (this was an auction buy) until I can try another bottle. Disappointing.
White
1993 Mount Pleasant Wines Sémillon Elizabeth Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Gold in colour, with a lovely honey nose. There’s a little acid left on the front palate, but the richly developed aged semillon characters are dominant. I found it just a little oily perhaps, but otherwise very satisfactory, with medium body, and at least moderate length. Less fresh than the Vat 1, but perfectly good. Probably not going to improve, though.
Red
1995 Ridge Geyserville USA, California, Sonoma County
My goodness! This is crimson red, but offers the most extraordinary nose of confected liquorice overlaid with porty aromas. There’s more than a hint of stewed fruit, and even a wisp of VA? – or maybe it’s the fumes from 15%+ alcohol. It’s gorgeously rich on the palate, again warm – yet feels almost bereft of tannins. It still has plenty of weight and a decently long finish. I’ve no experience with this style of wine at all - & suddenly realise how Cape Mentelle’s Zin gets described as ‘surprisingly elegant’ in the US! Very enjoyable – it would be nice to try more of these wines.
Red
1993 Hardys Shiraz Eileen Hardy Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
After the [Ridge] Zin, the nose here was a familiar old friend, with that chocolate/fudge and vanilla oak milkshake blend! Rich full & velvety on the palate, soft fine tannins, full body & persistent length. I imagine it’s close to its peak – and although I find this satisfying for the way the components have meshed into a fuzzy, blurry smudge of seductive flavours, it lacks the complex intellectual austerity of a fine Bordeaux. Of course, it was never meant to be that, was it…
Red
1995 Houghton Shiraz Show Reserve Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Frankland River
Brought by Andrew, who was prompted by Huon Hooke’s damning of this wine in the Herald liftout earlier in the week. And, lets face it, no sane person could deny that the nose, even at 7 years of age, is almost entirely oak! Hidden underneath are some inky fruit and blackcurrant flavours which are apparent on the palate. Despite the massive nose, the tannins are very fine, which serves to lessen their impact somewhat. It’s a big wine, and it hasn’t come together yet. Whether the acid will hold it together long enough for the oak nose to dissipate further is a moot point. I think the jury’s still out on this, although it will probably live long as a novelty wine in any case!
White - Fortified
1999 J. Vidal-Fleury Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise
Pale straw, the aromas are of musk & rosewater, with just a hint of marzipan. Warm on the palate (15%), with a slightly dry, powdery quality to it. Would serve equally well as an aperitif. OK if you like the style.
Red - Fortified
1984 Dow Porto Vintage Quinta do Bomfim Portugal, Douro, Porto
A vintage port from a non-declared year. I find a hot iodine-like nose, with strong brandy-spirit overtones. Warm & powerful on the palate, it easily holds it’s own with rich chocolate cake! Avoids the stewed sulphate/VA trap I find in local ‘vintage ports’. Although decanted 10 hrs prior, I suspect it could have opened out further with more time..
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