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Horizontal Tasting of 2002 Fevre Chablis

San Francisco

Tasted February 3, 2010 by drwine2001 with 641 views

Introduction

With great trepidation, we sat down to taste through this range plus a few treats. Since much attention has been paid to sources, let me say that with the exception of the second bottle of Les Clos, which came from the official American importer, the remainder of the bottles were from the gray market. Vaillons and Bougros came from unknown sources via Premier Cru. Montee de Tonnerre was brought in by Adventures in Wine. The first 5 Grand Crus also came from Premier Cru from a Danish source.

Flight 1 - Fevre '02s (9 notes)

White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
flawed
Dark tone, clearly oxidized.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Honeyed nose that shows the fatter aspects of the vintage. Again, rich palate with more exotic fruits. Some bitterness on the finish.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Pale color. Floral aromatics. As before, this lacks the intensity and structure of the best Chablis, but undeniably elegant, chalky, and feminine. Orange rind notes increase as it sits open. I really enjoyed this tonight.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
flawed
Unequivocally dark and completely oxidized.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Compared to the Vaudesir which preceded it, much fatter in style and reminiscent of the Montee de Tonnerre. Lacks a bit of grip and Chablis character, but full of interest, with chalk, vanilla, and lemon oil elements.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
As opposed to the oxidized half bottle I had last month, this was pale and pristine. Saline, lean, lighter weight and classic. Young and became even more focused over time. Outstanding and the consensus favorite tonight-a great showing.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
A shade darker than the other wines. Rich with a whiff of sherry. Certainly not austere. Not over the hill, but disappointing compared to a bottle tasted last year.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
More exotic fruit, pineapple here. Sound but without the excitement and cut I'd expect.
White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Imported by Clicquot. Relatively pale like the gray market bottle. Much more caramel on the nose. Fatter feel and clearly more advanced. Not nearly as good as it should be.

Flight 2 - A Red for Cheese (1 note)

Red
2005 Domaine Michel Gay et Fils Chorey-les-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune
Deep ruby. Crackling, brambly Savigny nose with uplifting perfume. Delicious fruit, crisp acidity. Contrary to the previous note in the database, open, accessible, and very pure.

Flight 3 - Finishing Treat (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1986 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Amber orange. Wonderful, high toned, liqueur-like aromatics. Lighter feel for Sauternes, elegant, long coconut and creme brulee with fantastic acidity.

Closing

It is, of course, impossible to account for all of the variables which can affect these wines. That said, the wines of Scandinavian provenance proved that they can be impeccably fresh and vibrant. In particular, the quality of the Preuses was a revelation, and the Vaudesir surprised many of us with its beauty. On the other hand, bottles of Vaillons and Bougros, which have been reported to be dead, were in fact moribund.

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