Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/10/2008 (link)

  (CHIROUBLES Cheysson) Cheysson Dear Friends, Here’s an outstanding example of Chiroubles, one of the more misunderstood/unknown regions of Burgundy. It is here, within the confines of this Beaujolais Cru, that one of the best examples of Gamay has emerged - Domaine Cheysson’s liquefied red rock example of Chiroubles. If you are into the cleansing low-alcohol and red fruit terroir of cru-level Beaujolais, this wine has been recognized by more than just my glorified view, it has also been singled out by Cheysson’s Beaujolais peer-group at their expo in Macon. It won the Gold Medal for 2006 and I don’t think there was a great deal of competition. This wine is better than most 2005 examples and it is made in a classic, medium weight style that begins to shine at your dinner table and never looks back. This is chiseled, angular and lovely all at once - it is what Gamay is all about in the hands of a non-interventionist winemaker that has exceptional land to work with. Unlike something like the Descombes Brouilly (which is far darker and tannic), this floats and sings with dreams and corners to turn - with unknown vistas brought into focus by the excellent acid/extract balance. This is a wine I could drink several nights per week - it is only 12.0-12.5% alcohol but it is also perfectly ripe and inviting, which proves the claim that you do not need alcohol above 12.5% to achieve ripeness. This wine would be an excellent choice as an educational bottle as it has terroir in spades but it not what I would consider eccentric or off-putting - it is a classic example of old-world attention to detail that expresses its place of origin and why that particular strip of land is so special. Please note: This is the “Medaille d’Or” cuvee - not all of the Cheysson Chiroubles you see listed is this cuvee ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly form the source with perfect provenance - only 100 cases for the US (split between the East and West coast) 2006 Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles (Medaille d’Or) (MDO/Macon) (this is not the Clos le Forges) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg6988