Final bottle from a half case. Still going strong at 15 years of age, without any signs of undue ageing or decay. Solid, sturdy even, masculine, good flavour concentration, firm tannic structure matched by the ripeness of the dark-pitched fruit, hints of earth and sauvage, no greenness whatsoever, fresh and well balanced, very good oak integration, excellent persistence. Not especially elegant, but clearly outperforming its village level in the context of the 2004 vintage. At peak, still with some time in hand.
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After two slightly difficult bottles, this one is showing well today. Mature but lively appearance, relatively deep colour; open and attractive nose, well-defined, still quite primary, only a hint of forest floor, cool minerality, oak spice and ripe but fresh fruit (red cherries and berries), very good depth; fresh and muscular palate, tannic and structured but with the fruit to back it up, dry and firm but not without sève, light flavours; clean and light finish, dried fruits, good length. Not a very complex wine but sturdy and solid and very good in the context of 2004, fully mature, drink up before it dries out.
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Seemed a bit dull on the first day - not used for the tasting as originally intended. On the second day it had blossomed, displaying its masculine and mineral Gevrey character, bright Pinot Noir fruit (red cherry, cranberry) supported by the warmth from spicy oak, undergrowth, medium body, drying finish with firm polyphenols, hint of black tea, good length. An energetic 2004, can go another 3-5 years if required.
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A really masculine rendition of the Burgundy theme, very Gevrey, black fruit and cool minerals on the nose, warmth from the wood, good depth; the palate displays considerable spice and tannins from the oak, energetic and fresh acidity, but without unripeness, cranberries and redcurrants; light finish, hint of cold tea, good length. Hardly a charmer - how will it develop? Will the fruit fade before the structural elements soften? It may dry out or may find a new balance in a few years' time. One to follow (90). Completely intact on day two, not even a hint of further evolution - let alone decay. Impressive, but the lack of charm remains a concern (90).
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Showing well tonight. Masculine and mineral, cool Gevrey character, black fruit, well-integrated smoky new oak, athletic rather than charming, quite tannic but that suits the style of this wine, not too dry, floral topnotes, some old-vine creaminess; good length. Medium weight, avoids meanness and greenness. Has entered its plateau of maturity; drink now - 2019.
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(Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes) Medium-plus colour, only just retaining a hint of cherry-red colour. The nose starts with full-on oak toast which slowly, slowly recedes to reveal black-shaded cherry, faint coffee and even some higher floral notes. Good texture and an ever-increasing intensity as you head for the mid-palate - the acidity seems not perfectly integrated though. Long, with creamy elements. Overall it is rather too oaky for my palate (to enjoy) and there’s eventually a suggestion of ash on the nose, but it’s certainly a good effort with no green.
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6/5/2019 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 91 Points
Final bottle from a half case. Still going strong at 15 years of age, without any signs of undue ageing or decay. Solid, sturdy even, masculine, good flavour concentration, firm tannic structure matched by the ripeness of the dark-pitched fruit, hints of earth and sauvage, no greenness whatsoever, fresh and well balanced, very good oak integration, excellent persistence. Not especially elegant, but clearly outperforming its village level in the context of the 2004 vintage. At peak, still with some time in hand.
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2/25/2018 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 91 Points
After two slightly difficult bottles, this one is showing well today. Mature but lively appearance, relatively deep colour; open and attractive nose, well-defined, still quite primary, only a hint of forest floor, cool minerality, oak spice and ripe but fresh fruit (red cherries and berries), very good depth; fresh and muscular palate, tannic and structured but with the fruit to back it up, dry and firm but not without sève, light flavours; clean and light finish, dried fruits, good length. Not a very complex wine but sturdy and solid and very good in the context of 2004, fully mature, drink up before it dries out.
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10/14/2016 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 90 Points
Seemed a bit dull on the first day - not used for the tasting as originally intended. On the second day it had blossomed, displaying its masculine and mineral Gevrey character, bright Pinot Noir fruit (red cherry, cranberry) supported by the warmth from spicy oak, undergrowth, medium body, drying finish with firm polyphenols, hint of black tea, good length. An energetic 2004, can go another 3-5 years if required.
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12/9/2015 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 90 Points
A really masculine rendition of the Burgundy theme, very Gevrey, black fruit and cool minerals on the nose, warmth from the wood, good depth; the palate displays considerable spice and tannins from the oak, energetic and fresh acidity, but without unripeness, cranberries and redcurrants; light finish, hint of cold tea, good length. Hardly a charmer - how will it develop? Will the fruit fade before the structural elements soften? It may dry out or may find a new balance in a few years' time. One to follow (90). Completely intact on day two, not even a hint of further evolution - let alone decay. Impressive, but the lack of charm remains a concern (90).
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11/9/2014 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 91 Points
Showing well tonight. Masculine and mineral, cool Gevrey character, black fruit, well-integrated smoky new oak, athletic rather than charming, quite tannic but that suits the style of this wine, not too dry, floral topnotes, some old-vine creaminess; good length. Medium weight, avoids meanness and greenness. Has entered its plateau of maturity; drink now - 2019.
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