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Bill Martin
159 Tasting Notes
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12/25/2021 - Bill Martin Likes this wine: 92 Points
Bottom half of cork was crumbly, but the upper half was still firm and tight. Some browning. Tannins resolved, but still earthy with good acid. Some light fruit at first, which opened up a bit over 5 hours in recorked bottle. Definitely a wine for slow sipping, not for food. Good example of an aged Barolo.
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1/12/2006 - tschampaert wrote: 88 Points
15: 45 h. CET
Colour: Pommegranate to brick-red with serious depth (almost black core); impressive evolution towards a brownish orange rim. Brilliant reflection.
Rich, long, slow legs.
This is already promising.
Nose: Still closed. Hints of black olive. After waltzing some faint strawberry.
Mouthfeel: Thick, layered. Still astringent.
Taste: Not much fruit, only secondary: stone and dried plum (yes, I am a bit worried). Predominantly leatherish. Well integrated acid, impressive, even almost oppressive bitters. Full bodied, almost heavy. Aftertaste 4-5 secs (on my opinion too short for Barolo).
We’ll give it a next try within a few hours. Yet, something is clear already: this is (or was?!) a Barolo ‘old style’; aristocratic, massive, austere and earthy. Let us hope it will show a more friendly face after oxygen has done it’s job.
19: 00 h.
Nose: Opening up. Red fruit and plum. Spicy and earthy (leather) overtones. After waltzing voluptuously fresh red fruit (mainly raspberry and crushed red currant) and kirsch.
Mouthfeel: Still thick, layered, palatefilming
Taste: In contrast with former tasting glass a nice assortment of red fruit (what you smell is what you taste) and a nice balance between acids and mouthdrying bitters. Faint hints of liquorice and someting like rosewater. Aftertaste (strawberry liquor?) lasts for 20 secs (that’s more like it!).
Astonishing evolution: from an almost dried out, seemingly completely reductive wine to a gentle and inviting red spirit, though it will never become light-footed. Maybe it has still more to offer, we‘ll wait and see.
22: 15 h.
Nose: Open. Distintively red fruit, especially strawberry, carried by dusty dried plum scents. Leatherish overtones still faintly on background; almost replaced by fondant chocolate (something reminds me of young vintage port). After waltzing deep and persistent aromas of red fruit, still kirsch and something flowerlike.
Mouthfeel: Bit more subtle on the palate, still layered and drying.
Taste: Gets better and better. Fully convinced of it’s quality now. It is by no means a Conterno cru or something like that, but it’s definitely a typical Barolo: power but gentle, loads of red fruit (strawberry) but refined, smooth hints of Colombian coffee and liquorice but nothing jammy, finally nice red grapefruitlike sours and bitters (the latter are a bit more absorbed by now). Everything well balanced and gentle. Maybe the drying bitters will put some people off, but I like this ‘old style’ characteristic. Long lasting aftertaste (now definitely more than 20secs.) of wild strawberry and liquorice.
No real blockbuster, but charming in it’s subtle modesty. It even has some nice aging potential (still 3-4 more years to go before it will reach it’s climax; will remain there for about 6 years). And surely, for this price, complaining would be true snobism. Coup de coeur.
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