2018 La Maison Carrée Savagnin Blanc

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  3/14/2023 - prasm Likes this wine: 90 Points

  Recently I’ve been drawn into a couple conversations, both personal and on the internet, about the origins of the Gewurztraminer grape. The common theory is it originated in the Alto-Adige region of north-east Italy near Tramin. In reality, DNA research has proven that Gewurztraminer is a clone of Savagnin Blanc which originated in either north-east France (Alsace) or south-west Germany (Pfalz). Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes book, in addition to referencing the DNA research, refers to Gewurztraminer as a highly aromatic clone of Savagnin Blanc.
  
  By coincidence I happened to have both a Gerwurztraminer (2017 Elena Walch from Alto Adige) and a this Savagnin Blanc (from Lake Neuchatel Switzerland – less than 100 miles south of both Alsace and Pfalz) which I decided to taste side by side for comparison.
  
  The tasting was conducted in two parts over 3 days on day 1 and day 3. The wines were stored in a Somm du Vine over the tasting period.
  
  Day 1 impressions: Initially the aromatic differences were very obvious with the Gewurtz showing pronounced intensity aromas of pear, quince, and grapefruit while the Savagnin showed just medium intensity aromas dominated by grapefruit with undertones of pear. In the mouth the Gewurtz came across as much rounder and slightly more intense versus the Savagnin with was more linear and focused. As the wines warmed in the glass over the 1.5 hour tasting period the Gerwurz started to come apart a bit while the Savagnin stayed the course. Due to the degradation of the Gerwurtz I would say I preferred the Savagnin, surprisingly. It’s easy to see the similarities in these two wines, particularly on the palate with similar fruit profiles with emphasis on different ends.
  
  Day 3 impressions: Overall both wines have held up superbly with little noticeable difference versus day 1. My impressions are unchanged, I slightly prefer the Savagnin. It’s more linear and focused and seemed to improve as it warmed nearer to room temperature. At 13% abv versus 14% abv for the Gewurtz it’s slightly lighter bodied and more structured. The Gewurtz was bigger in the mouth with a nice creamy mouth-feel and performs great at 55 degrees, better than the Savagnin in fact.
  
  In the end I can definitely believe these are just different expressions of the same grape variety. I would score each evenly, though the Gewurtz at serving temperature was a cut above the Savagnin the Savagnin was more consistent as it warmed. In summary, I was surprised at how well the much lesser known Savagnin Blanc performed here. I recommend trying one, if you can find it.

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