Given that I live less than a mile from the ocean, I really ought to drink more Muscadet, especially considering how much I’ve cellared over the years (a lot). And with that in mind and a chance encounter with some beautiful looking halibut cheeks at the fish market, I pulled a bottle of Luneau-Papin 2002 L d’Or from the wine fridge. And I’ll be goddamned, this is a beauty! Forsythia yellow/just hinting at gold robe. Upon opening the nose is pretty, dynamic, and pure—no, is-it-corked-or-old-Loire here, thank you very much. Aromas of wet stone, just barely ripe orchard fruit, and preserved lemon on the nose, with just a whisper of petrol, but more sweet summer lawn clipping and lawn mower gas than Formula 1. The palate shows nervous tension and is just uncoiling with salted pear, bits of iodine and Meyer lemon flavors vying with notes of quinine and bee pollen. This is ripe and nearly round (for Muscadet) but there’s a satisfying cut and precision that moderates the ripeness, as if gaveling the yellow fruit to order. Splendid with pan-roasted halibut cheeks with brown butter and capers, and carrot purée with honey, and Cara Cara juice, as well a charred broccolini with lemon and anchovy. But if you have a chicken needing roasting this will perform with élan at the very least. (Maybe highlight the bird with a piquant salsa verde.) Fine, fine bottle purchased as a young(er) wine professional quite a few years ago. Thanks David Lillie and perhaps Lyle Fass(?). Age your Muscadet, friends!
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A farewell to Tooch (Chicago, IL): Not a fan of this at all. Fairly oily with some nutty and waxy qualities on the palate. High-toned, with some Sharpie marker/organic solvent tones, and the alcohol seems like it pokes through a little bit on the finish.
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(Luneau-Papin L d' Or Muscadet) This is a stunning wine and possibly the finest Muscadet I have ever had. It just keeps getting better and better. Etheral nose of minerals, lime and sea salt. Crisp, yet fat and creamy on the palate with dazzling purity and long finish. Great stuff.
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2/10/2024 - JohnMcIlwain Likes this wine:
Given that I live less than a mile from the ocean, I really ought to drink more Muscadet, especially considering how much I’ve cellared over the years (a lot). And with that in mind and a chance encounter with some beautiful looking halibut cheeks at the fish market, I pulled a bottle of Luneau-Papin 2002 L d’Or from the wine fridge. And I’ll be goddamned, this is a beauty! Forsythia yellow/just hinting at gold robe. Upon opening the nose is pretty, dynamic, and pure—no, is-it-corked-or-old-Loire here, thank you very much. Aromas of wet stone, just barely ripe orchard fruit, and preserved lemon on the nose, with just a whisper of petrol, but more sweet summer lawn clipping and lawn mower gas than Formula 1. The palate shows nervous tension and is just uncoiling with salted pear, bits of iodine and Meyer lemon flavors vying with notes of quinine and bee pollen. This is ripe and nearly round (for Muscadet) but there’s a satisfying cut and precision that moderates the ripeness, as if gaveling the yellow fruit to order. Splendid with pan-roasted halibut cheeks with brown butter and capers, and carrot purée with honey, and Cara Cara juice, as well a charred broccolini with lemon and anchovy. But if you have a chicken needing roasting this will perform with élan at the very least. (Maybe highlight the bird with a piquant salsa verde.) Fine, fine bottle purchased as a young(er) wine professional quite a few years ago. Thanks David Lillie and perhaps Lyle Fass(?). Age your Muscadet, friends!
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5/9/2022 - DaleW wrote:
Nice showing- citrus and saline, fresh but with plenty of complexity, long. All one can expect for aging a $12 wine. A-
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3/1/2019 - Nanda wrote: 85 Points
Tooch Going Away Dinner (TDS): Tired and overly mature nose. Palate is waxy and flat. Well past peak.
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3/1/2019 - acyso wrote: 85 Points
A farewell to Tooch (Chicago, IL): Not a fan of this at all. Fairly oily with some nutty and waxy qualities on the palate. High-toned, with some Sharpie marker/organic solvent tones, and the alcohol seems like it pokes through a little bit on the finish.
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8/5/2018 - cfk49 wrote: 90 Points
Salty and austere, remarkable freshness for a 16 year-old white.
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