A Small 1990 European Dinner

Nopa, San Francisco
Tasted Wednesday, August 25, 2010 by drwine2001 with 389 views

Flight 1 - Warm Up Wines (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Saignée de Sorbée Extra Brut

    France, Champagne

    First wine I've tried from this natural producer. More wine than Champagne. Incredibly intense strawberry without much yeastiness. Low residual sugar. That's all I could glean from a small taste. Intriguing, need to try more.

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  • 2002 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Light yellow. Pure, pristine Chablis, much more about the underlying stoniness and acidity than the fruit, but you feel more than taste the fruit and the balance is superb. Very atypical for 2002 in that it is lean and delicate without any sense of fatness. As is often the case, a totally different wine than Les Clos in its weight, but an equally great expression of Grand Cru Chablis. This '02 and the '04 Preuses we tried earlier this month were both stellar and played to the strengths of the disparate vintage styles. I'd aim to hold this one for another 8-10 years if this bottle is representative.

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Flight 2 - Main Event (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    My last bottle of this iconic wine. Still pale and remarkably fresh smelling without as much distillate quality as previous bottles. Not in the least tired on the palate, but this bottle was different in showing a bit of residual sweetness, more spicy peach fruit, and a even a tad of honey. Excellent but it clearly lacked the focus and drive that has been so exhilarating before. Farewell to an old friend which has provided great drinking experiences.

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  • 1990 Mommessin Clos de Tart

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    Resolved, medium to tawny color. At its best aromatically right out of the bottle with dizzyingly complex red fruit, cinnamon, and toffee. Full bodied and decidedly less complex in the mouth. Good acidity but still came across as a little too densely knit. In the end, a disturbing amount of alcohol showed and impaired the overall balance of the wine. Does not make into the realm of great Clos de Tart-excellent material, no lack of fruit at age 20, but ultimately too chunky and lacking focus.

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  • 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    It's been almost 3 years between bottles of this and the lack of change is uncanny. Very deep, primary color. Again, pronounced blackberry liqueur quality. It is almost syrupy, but it is saved from being too heavy or port-like by strong acidity. As occurred when I drank this in 2007, some green notes emerged, but only after 2-3 hours in the decanter. Tannins are substantial but easygoing. Three words describe the approach to this wine-patience, patience, patience. It has every indication of maintaining this rather simple, monochromatic state for another decade or (probably) more based on the trajectory I've observed since 2000. I truly hope that people who own this wine (including me!) can look forward to as much longevity as the wine itself. It is not that much closer to maturity on its 20th birthday than it was on its 10th.

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