Impromptu tasting @ my place

A wonderful multiformity in this evening without any theme or control, although our shared preference for Bordeaux wines shines through...
Wines tasted with David and Thijs, some blind, others open label.

• NV Andrea Arici - Colline della Stella Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero

  Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG

  Bouquet is extensive and inviting: yellow fruits, warm straw and brioche. Good and broad entrance, but towards the finish acidity and bitterness dominate the palate. Overall balance is improving when the wines warms up a little: it's getting more friendly, fruity and open.

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• 1984 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux

  France, Bordeaux

  Colour is clear and strikingly light for its age. Very uncommon bouquet and that makes this wine very hard to determine when served blind. This not very expressive, I would call it modest, and showes impressions of a weedy kind of herbs, fennel, lettuce, apple-sauce and some vanilla. Its body is slender but intriguing like a ballet-dancer's. Of course this wine misses some stuffing, weight and fruit, but still is brisk, vibrant and fresh. Probably past its best, though very interesting and fun to drink.

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• 2007 Ansgar Clüsserath Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Heavily perfumed, flowers, cotton candy, raspberry, strawberry, orchid. On the palate there also are a lot of candied fruits and acidity is quite low. Still very young and at the moment there is some sugar-acid imbalance. But I sense this will be allright in a few years time. Made in a nice and ripe, rich style, good length.

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• 1981 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Crianza

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Pop-n-pour. Straight out of the bottle this sample showed tar, rosepetals, dried flowers, feminine, fresh and perky. Reddish brown colour, bright and translucent. After some aeration blood and rusy iron notes emerge and the finish is marked by 'old acidity'. Since my guess was 60's Bdx, I would call this a surprising and interesting showing...

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• 1970 Château La Lagune

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

  Slow o-ed for 4 hours, then served. Opens a little wayward and mouldy, but this blows off after a few minutes in the glass. Deep crimson in colour, hardly any bricking. This over-40-year-old puppy has lots to offer and is very drinkable at the moment. Fine redberried fruits go hand in hand with some tar, cigarbox and a faint asphalt-note. Refreshing acidity and even some sweetness give this wines its structure, and it still doesn't turn bloody/steely at the end (which i often sense in older Bdx). Drink now!

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• 1975 Château La Tour de By

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc

  Also this wine performed above (my) expectations. Clearly very mature, but very lively and tasty showing notes of chocolate, mushroom and peppery black fruit. Sure, acidity is prominent, but not too old. Although this wine finishes a tad lean and astringent, this is a very neat and specail wine. Guessed: 83 Left Bank.

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• 1977 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

  Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

  Very complex wine with impressions of black cherries, autumn forest floor, balsam, ink, gingerbread, and some sweaty gamey kind of odour demanding full attention. Very impressive earthy glass of wine which fills every nook of your mouth! Powerful, and slightly alcoholic. Caveat emptor: only suited for lovers of ultratraditional stuff!

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• 1985 Château La Lagune

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

  Feels kinda oxidative... Green kitchen herbs, ash tray, incense, iodine, tomato. Aftertaste has some sweetness in it, but otherwise it's slightly sour, unfortunately. Despite some improvement in the glass, fatigue seems to strike. Sub-optimal bottle?

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• 2001 Domaine Sorin Bandol

  France, Provence, Bandol

  Complex bouquet: lots of pepper, bacon, blood, earth, meat and syrah-like fruit. Slightly warm and modern in its mouthfeel, though aromatics are quite traditional. Nice, juicy and powerful. Good wine. Drink now or within 5 years.

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• 2001 Château Montus Madiran

  France, Southwest France, Madiran

  Luxurious, impressive bouquet which (literally) grabs you by the nose. Black cherries, blackberries, schoolpaint, balsamico. Imposing structure of ultra heavy, yet very ripe, tannines. Very pure and focussed wine, incredible value for money.

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• 2001 Château Sociando-Mallet

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

  Young and expressive, alcohol in the nose. Extremely tight, dense and compact. Nuances of lavender, blackberries and chalk. Muscular and sinewy wine, not fat. Austere and severely tannic. Way to young. Unforgiving.

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• 1986 Château Pontet-Canet

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Aromatically entirely mature and a point, but tannines are still very prominent and too coarse. Fruit has left the building, licorice, sous-bois and autum leaves are entering. Don't know where this is heading...

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• 1994 Château Latour à Pomerol

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Eloquent, graceful presentation, soft and fully mature. Tobacco, plum, coffee, chocolate, cherry. Well balanced, beautiful and stylish wine.

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• 1997 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #6

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Beautiful interplay between sweetness, acidity and mineral highlights. Presented in Fritz Haag's typical style (all about finesse, minerality and the slightly vegetal herbaceousness, which I adore). This auslese is light-on-its-feet, almost spätlese-like and has only the slightest hints of petrol over the apple/melon/grapefruit-salad that's dancing out of the glass. Lovely, drink now and in the following 10 years.

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• 1973 Château Climens

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Not very complex but extremely enjoyable and kinda surprising regarding the off-year. Luckily this bottle was in pristine condition, which made it memorable. It's character and structure made me think of a demi-sec wine. Butterscotch, resin, oranges, dried tobacco, lemon-oil, hint of peachyoghurt and baked bananas. Oak has integrated nicely and plays a supporting role. Hardly any botrytis.

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• 2005 Château Coutet Barsac

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Short impression: baked banana, peppery botrytis, good concentration but enough freshness and vigour to keep it lively. Very noble and aristocratic, but way to young. Lots of cellaring potential.

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Personal WOTN's: this time I would choose 3 wines because of their unsuspected buoyancy: 1984 Pavillon Blanc, 1975 Tour de By and 1973 Climens.
Other wines to look out for: 2005 Coutet