NobleRottersSydney - Spanish Acquisition

Seven lucky Rotters are joined by Katrina Miller, the Spanish Acquisiton’s Sydney rep, who has generously supplied some of the top Spanish drops distributed by Scott Wasley’s now-ten-year-old Iberian-focussed import agency. Alio’s did us a joyous series of tapas plates, followed by a paella the size (but thankfully not the texture) of a truck tyre…

• 2006 Juvé y Camps Cava Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva

  Spain, Cava

  [12.5%, cork, A$60] A 3-way even split of the traditional Cava grapes, this is a bone-dry rendition, which still has a youthfully sweet nose of green apples. The palate is clean and crisp, with delicate medium-sized bubbles, about medium-bodied weight, and a medium length finish. Although to me it lacks ultimate complexity, it is wonderfully balanced along the palate, and that evenness of flavour, together with the freshness and delicacy of the flavours (there’s not a lot of autolysis or leesy character, despite 36 months prior to disgorgement), draws you to subsequent glasses.

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• 2010 Adegas Valmiñor Albariño Rías Baixas

  Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas

  [12.5%, screwcap, A$40] This is what Australians were trying to make when we somehow got lumbered with savagnin instead. Lifted notes of steely yet floral aromas just carry an exotic hint of turkish delight about them. The palate has custard-apple flavours, with a distinct and delicious minerally tang. There’s a nod to spritz in the medium acidity, which isn’t harsh or overt; the palate is light-medium-bodied, oak-free, with a dry, savoury, medium-long finish. With perfectly-judged alcohol, you could drink this by the bucket, were it not for the price…

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• 2009 Telmo Rodríguez Rueda El Transistor

  Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda

  [12.5% cork, A$60] Pale lemon/straw colour. A youthful nose of spicy, almost oily aromas. There’s some barel-ferment here, which doesn’t really smell of oak on the nose, but seems to give the aromas a real density somehow. There are more solids characters in the texture of the wine, with its orange-skin/tangerine flavours, mixed with a kind of spiciness, but never tasting oaky. There are soft dusty tannins to the palate too; this is dry and savoury, medium-full in body, and again evenly present along the palate. It’s let down a little by a slightly short finish, which can’t quite do justice to the weight of the flavours, and just seems a little out of character, but that’s the only shortcoming here. An interesting wine, but I think it’s probably for the shorter term.

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• 2008 Bodegas Roda Rioja Sela

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  [14%, cork, A$60] A bright, jubey tempranillo with aromas full of clean fruits and minimal oak. Medium-high acid, and strong cherry/jubey fruit flavours; it’s medium-bodied, savoury in a good way, and with a medium length finish. Somewhat translucent in texture, it’s not exactly typical Rioja, but rather a fruit-highlighted statement of tempranillo fruit. Good wine, although I think you’re paying a bit for the Roda name here.

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• 2007 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda Reserva Flawed

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  [14%, cork, A$110] Although this glows with ripe blue-tinted fruits, the nose is overlaid with a distinct mustiness. And although the palate isn’t totally scalped, the passing of time confirmed what a number of us thought the minute we sniffed this. Len Evans exhorted people to ‘taste through the taint’, but I just can’t do it. I feel like Sibelius, who once attended a rehearsal of his second symphony. The orchestra’s 3rd trumpet player was missing that day, and Sibelius left the rehearsal after a few minutes, saying “I can only hear the trumpet that isn’t there.” There’s just too much of this wine not here under these conditions.

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• 2006 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda I Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  [14%, cork, A$150] Plums, dark fruit, blood-and-bone. Precious little development apparent at 6 years old. There’s a real red meat and bitumen quality to the nose here, a deep-chested rich red/black quality that shines through on the palate as well. The palate adds more dark flavours; liquorice, blackberries, charcoal (although not just barrel char). There’s almost a note of supressed violence in here somewhere. The texture is warm and spice, the finish earthy and savoury. Medium acid, medium-full body, and medium dusty tannins round out the components. All the length of the palate is engaged by this; the finish is long and supple. Ought to handsomely age twenty years at least. Impressive stuff and surprisingly drinkable now.

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• 2007 Telmo Rodríguez Ribera del Duero M2 de Matallana

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  [13.5%, cork, A$75] Youthful nose, a mixture of stewed cherries tinged with a slightly rustic note. The palate is very fresh, almost raw for a five-year-old wine, with the same bright dark cherry fruit flavours and litle overt oak. Tannins are grape-skin chewy, but gentle in texture. It’s only just medium bodied (certainly after the Roda Riserva!) but remains a solid if slightly anonymous wine with a medium-length finish.

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• 2008 Cillar de Silos Ribera del Duero

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  [14.5%, cork, A$75] Here’s an authentic, older-style spanish red. Developing aromas of tobacco and leather, not without some mulberry fruit but also some blood, compost and bitumen. Palate is similarly rich in flavour, with intense meaty flavours and blueberry fruits. Solidly medium-bodied, with medium chalky tannins, an even palate and a medium length finish. Has plenty of heft without being a bruiser or bomb-style of wine. From old vines, and aged in larger 600l casks. At the same price as the Rodriguex M2 there’s no contest; this has far greater depth and interest. Clearly the pick of the nights’ reds using the value-for-money criteria.

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• 2009 Psi Ribera del Duero

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  [13.5%, cork, A$85] This might be the most New World of the reds on offer tonight, , bright ruby in colour, with its youthful and bright cherry fruits, vanilla overtones and jammy richness at its core. The medium-bodied palate has plenty of red-fruit richness but retains a certain translucent purity which isn’t compromised by medium powdery tannins or a drying almost rustic quality of texture. Medium-length finish, sure, decent enough, and ought to age happily for 5-10 years, but I don’t think it’s got the personality to justify the price, especially over the Silos. Solid effort.

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• NV Sánchez Romate Hnos. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Cardenal Cisneros

  Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

  [18%, cork, A$65] Golden copper/brown. Aged nose of burnt caramel and sweet toffee. Somewhat ascetic nose is belied by a hugely sweet palate, beautifully balanced by acidity. Luscious rancio flavours, liquified sultana/raisin characters pervade the palate. Gorgeous stuff.. Full-bodied and intense, but clean and pure too. Glorious long finish. The kind of wine that you drink to the point of regretfulness. Every bit a match for top-notch Rutherglen fortifieds, and in a very similar style. Terrific stuff.

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A interesting and attractive collection of mostly up-to-the-minute Spanish reds. Thanks to Katrina and TSA for their generosity. You’ve got to look really hard to find anything locally made that can duplicagte these styles, which might perhaps be why the prices are fairly eye-watering, especially compared to retail prices in other parts of the world. The magic of the WET, eh.