An Extraordinary Range at Maison Trimbach

This generous display of wines did nothing but cement my opinion that in the classic mineral, dry style, nobody in Alsace does it better than Trimbach. The late harvest wines aren't too shabby either, but even many of these are rendered in a distinctly drier style. Given the size and diversity of production, amazing quality from top to bottom.

• 2009 Trimbach Riesling

  France, Alsace

  Floral. Lovely bright citrus. Light weight. Excellent basic cuvée.

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• 2009 Trimbach Riesling Reserve

  France, Alsace

  Drier, slightly larger scaled than regular cuvée. More austere quinine finish. Impressive structure for an '09.

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• 2006 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

  France, Alsace

  Some tropical and peach fruit-pretty exotic for this wine. Big and relatively plush although still dry. Some soil on the finish. Better than I expected, but I'm still not crazy about this.

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• 2006 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

  France, Alsace

  Pale, floral, lemony, dry and high acidity. Light weight but great intensity and penetration. This is more like it! The Clos Ste. Hune manages to be classic and potentially great whereas the Frederic Emile succumbs to the excesses of the vintage. The wine showed tremendous resemblance to the '96 we had yesterday. Amazing result for the vintage.

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• 2008 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve

  France, Alsace

  Subtle pineapple aromatics. A tad of residual sugar. Great soil, acidity and expansiveness. Above class and better than many other blowsy Pinot Gris we tasted.

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• 2005 Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle

  France, Alsace

  Medium yellow. Riper peach than the '08 Reserve. Rich and lush but restrained. Long earthy finish. Stylish.

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• 2005 Trimbach Pinot Gris 13ème génération

  France, Alsace

  Medium yellow. Honeyed aromas. Great clarity and purity of fruit. Medium weight, harmonious feel with a miraculous sense of lightness despite its concentration. A knockout.

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• 2009 Trimbach Gewurztraminer

  France, Alsace

  Limpid. Typical pungency but not overblown. Light, elegant, off dry, good acidity. Some texture and richness sneak up at the end. Very classy basic Gewurztraminer.

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• 2005 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Reserve

  France, Alsace

  Richer, deeper, lower pitched and less overtly varietal than the '09 normale but I could not fully assess the wine as i believe the bottle we were shown was slightly corked.

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• 2004 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre

  France, Alsace

  Two consecutive vintages of this tasted back to back. Refined, subtle nose without florality. Lighter weight. Pure, fresh fruit, just off dry. Fantastic and subtle for Gewurz. My favorite drier style Gewurz of the trip by far for its impeccable balance.

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• 2005 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre

  France, Alsace

  This on the other hand was slightly honeyed, denser, more aggressively varietal and bitter at the end. Despite its greater heft, it still had a dip in flavor in the mid-palate. The 2004 is the far superior wine.

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• 2002 Trimbach Riesling Vendanges Tardives

  France, Alsace

  Lightly citric nose. Medium weight, good richness with low residual sugar for a VT. Dried peach on the palate. Excellent and it perfectly captures the drier Trimbach VT style.

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• 2000 Trimbach Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives

  France, Alsace

  Light golden. Unusual nose with almond kernel. Biggest, heaviest, most botrytized of the VT's. Bitter, short finish. This is too extracted to ever achieve balance. One of the least successful wines in the range.

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• 2005 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives

  France, Alsace

  Full yellow. Alluring nose of grapefruit and a splash of honey. Moderately sweet, perfect weght, great acidity. Textbook handling of Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer. Hard to imagine a better example. A totally different animal than the preceding Pinot Gris; infinitely more satisfying and drinkable.

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• 2001 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles

  France, Alsace

  Light golden. Honeyed nose with faint grapefruit. Liquoureux, completely harmonious, exquisite mouth feel, length and balancing acidity. My god, this may be one of the best dessert wines I've ever had! Could be a legend-absolutely riveting.

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• 1994 Trimbach Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles

  France, Alsace

  Slightly lighter in color and weight than the previous SGN. Unusual dose of herbs on rhe nose. Less mid-palate richness. Some orange fruit. OK but it really suffered in comparison to the heroic Gewurztraminer SGN that came before it.

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