A birthday dinner for Suzanne at Christine's.

Suzanne Camhi had a birthday approaching, so a few of the locals got together last week to fete her. Christine was the host with the most and once again did her magic in the kitchen, serving up a veritable feast, with a small contribution from me in vegeable terrine form and a great time was had by all.

Happy Birthday, Suzanne!

• 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut Flawed

  France, Champagne

  Heat damaged/oxidized.

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• 1990 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame

  France, Champagne

  Quite pleasant, if lacking excitement and verve. Plenty of biscuits and yellow and orange citrus. Fine bead and while still fresh, it's definitely taken on some mature and refined characteristics. Low A-.

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• 1996 François Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) Cour-Cheverny Vendanges Manuelles Cuvée Renaissance

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Cour-Cheverny

  Another brilliant showing and a better bottle than one had over Memorial Day weekend at Jay Miller's place. It's a bit of a broken record at this point, but what makes this wine so terrific is the vitality and vigor it shows and the snappy acidity that balances out the light sweetness. The usual characters are there, quince, mineral and raspberry fruit, though it took some time to coax the red fruits out. Consistently superb and moving along slowly on the space-time continuum. Plenty of life here. I recall Dressner telling me how great the '59 and '76 were, so as delicious as it is now, it's still a pup. A.

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• 2005 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Muscular and intense with rich yellow fruit, melon and mineral, but completely overrun by butterscotch oak on the nose and palate. A shame as there are good materials here, though I'm not convinced the oak will ever fully integrate and with premox still an issue, I'm not sure one would want to take the risk. If big, brash and butterscotchy is how you like your Chardonnay, this one's for you. B/B+.

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• 2001 Camille Giroud Romanée St. Vivant

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Pleasant enough, but perhaps a bit tight as it's not showing much of a personality. There's a decent amount of red fruit with root spices and earth and the wine has elegance, but I suggested at the table that all the wine is saying is "I'm a red wine." There's still quite a bit of tannin that needs softening and the finish is a bit drying and reveals a touch of wood. Perhaps it needs more time, but while seemingly well-made, dare I say it's rather boring? B+.

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• 2003 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Absolutely fruit driven and rarin' to go, which is why Paul and I were looking at Leo incredulously when he kept insisting that the wine was tight. Frankly, if it were any more open, it would be working a corner on 7th Avenue. Soft, low acid and bursting with ripe red fruit and light spice notes, let's call a spade a spade. It's uncomplicated and slutty and should be enjoyed in the immediacy for what it is. Surprisingly, it actually paired quite nicely with the wagyu sirloin. A-/B+.

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• 1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  This wine has gone through a wonderful transformation in the past couple of years, as exhibited by this and two or so other bottles I've had in that time. I've always considered '96 a bit problematic due to the acidity which always stuck out a bit too much, seemingly like a poke in the eye. However, recent showings have seen that acid edge soften and integrate, allowing the fruit and other components to shine through more freely, while the freshness and lithe character still remain. Such is the case with this bottle, which is perhaps the most integrated and expansive bottle I've had. Crunchy cherry fruit with meat, blood, herbs and spices and, with air, the aroma of violets filled the air. The wine just dances across the palate. No rush here, but it's really hitting its peak drinking window now, imo. Solid A-.

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• 1985 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Loads of band-aid and poop aromas which, while a bit much for Suzanne, were just fine with Paul and me. While it took awhile for it to blow off some, there were more pleasant black fruit, herb, licorice and smoked meat aromas underneath that showed through even more forcefully on the palate. Fully mature and resolved with a wonderfully silky mouthfeel. Just a nice example of a fully mature Côte-Rôtie. A-/B+.

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• 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles Trié Spéciale

  France, Alsace

  Always a treat to have this wine, though it certainly isn't for everyone. It hasn't really changed much since the last time I had it, but remains like an essencia with it's ripe apricot, honey, tropical fruit and white raisin profile with just enough acidfity to prevent it from being cloying, though that's certainly a different bar for different folks. Low alcoho, 4% and syrupy, it really doesn't make a sound when you pour it, but there certainly are fireworks in the mouth! My WOTN. A+.

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Some pictures from the evening.

The group.


The wines.


Russ & Daughters smoked salmon loin with creme fraiche and caviar.


Fresh corn vichyssoise shooters.


Crab cakes with salmon roe and uni.


Poached egg with roasted asparagus and miso butter.


Perfect!


Prime beef from Japan Premium Beef and Heritage Meats. L to R: Washugyu Culotte, Washugyu Sirloin, Piedmontese Petite Tender, Piedmontese Hangar.


Roasted vegetable terrine.


Hamachi with horseradish-edamame puree, prime beef and roasted vegetable terrine.


Cherry and berry pavlova with passion fruit curd.


A nice slice.