Burgundy Pas de Deux-Heritiers du Comte Lafon and Jerome Chezeaux

These all shared the same quality of citrus fruit. Either the wood treatment escalated over the course of these 3 vintages, or the wines just take a while to resorb the oak. Frankly, I hope the latter is true, since the 2010 was too oaky for comfort in putting any away, especially at these lofty prices.

• 2010 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Bussières Le Monsard

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Bussières

  A bit of tropical fruit on the nose is misleading. Fairly lean on the palate with citrus and good acidity. This showed the most oak of the 3 vintages but was still very good, striking an excellent balance between some richness and cut.

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• 2009 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Bussières Le Monsard

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Bussières

  Richer, toastier nose than the 2010, but this confounded again, actually displaying less wood flavor that the younger wine. Very carressing, slightly buttery texture. Bright, blood orange fruit with a bitter twist and very nice acidity for this rich vintage.

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• 2008 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Bussières Le Monsard

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Bussières

  Captivating orange blossom nose. Less fat than the '09, lovely balance (although not particularly high acidity), hardly a trace of oak here. Classy Macon and overall, my favorite of the bunch.

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A very good trio from a producer with whom I've had little experience, and well delineated differences vintage to vintage.

• 2007 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Medium light ruby. Forward, spicy red fruit aromatics. Light but amazingly silky and sappy. Notably expansive in the mouth. Good acidity, slight pungency to add to the beautifully clear fruit. Very attractive now. Very delicate expression of Nuits.

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• 2006 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Medium to light core with browner tinge. Much gamier than the '07. Bigger, earthier, less fruit and more powerful than the younger vintage. Transient appearance of some sap and sweetness that are cut off by grainier tannins. Much more like my mind's eye vision of Nuits St. Georges than the 2007.

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• 2005 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Medium center, lighter edge. Brooding and closed. Packed, dense and closed on the palate too. Behind the wall of tannin is stern black fruit, anise and powerful acidity. Tough going now, but this seems to have the right stuff going forward. Do not even think about opening a bottle for another 8 to 10 years!

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