Eleven Madison Park, NYC
Tasted Friday, February 15, 2013 by salil with 721 views
The first thing that stands out here is the power and breadth, but there's also tremendous complexity and a remarkably glossy, polished texture in the mouth. It doesn't have the piercingly vivid mineral character the other GGs show; this comes across riper with the fruit almost verging on the tropical, and conveying more intensity than elegance. It's compelling to drink though with amazing depth, though there's just a touch of warmth on the back end. Auction bottling, from magnum.
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I wasn't that excited by this when I had it a couple of years ago but it comes across a lot more polished and elegant now; it's not as powerful or intense a wine as the '06, and actually needs quite some time in the glass to open up - but when it does, there's a beautiful fragrance combining fresh orchard fruits, high toned herbal elements, stony and briny notes, and a sense of wonderful purity and focus on the palate with amazing depth and length. A real wow wine.
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Astonishing how well balanced and elegant this is given the vintage. There's certainly plenty of acidity here, but it's not aggressive and rather is integrated beautifully with the layers of fruit, floral, herbal and mineral flavors here. Fascinating to have this after the flight of the 2008 and 2006 Abtserde GGs, as in terms of intensity and ripeness it's somewhere in between - richer and deeper than the '08 (though not showing quite the same delicate touch on the palate), at the same time not as powerful, broad and intense as the '06, while showing very similar flavours to both.
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Quite a contrast to the 2010 Abtserde GG; this is rather flamboyant in comparison with a surprisingly exotic floral and herbal perfume, amazing depth on the palate and a sense of real sappiness to the citrus and white fruited flavours here. It seems like a riper and bigger wine, but while quite powerful there's a remarkable sense of finesse here with the acids balancing it very well and keeping it so light on its feet, and a finish that just goes on and on. Stunning wine.
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Still very primary and youthful, there's an almost oceanic character to the aromas with a vivid saline, briny character dominating, and pure citrus, pear and stone fruit beneath tinged with herbs and stone. Power with a sense of Wonderful purity and elegance, and again, such remarkable length.
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Just starting to show some developing creamy flavours around the core of youthful ripe fruit and minerality. There's more complexity here apparent than in the other two G-Max vintages poured with a compelling, remarkably layered fragrance here, but at the same time it seems to trade finesse for power here, showing incredible intensity and persistence but not the lightness and elegance that made the 2010 so striking for me.
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Seems to pick up where the Kabinett left off; the same complex, mature Mosel flavours and sense of harmony, and again such elegance and lightness on the palate. This is a little deeper and broader than the Kabinett, yet again so precise, delicate and thrilling to drink.
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This feels so youthful, almost primary, after drinking the '81 - yet it's absolutely thrilling to drink now, with youthful apple, pear and lime fruit tinged with gentle honeyed and floral notes, and a vivid base of slate underneath. It's certainly got some youthful sweetness to it, but there's als bracing acidity underneath that keeps it so precise, light and perfectly balanced. Fantastic.
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Oh, wow. The aromatics immediately suggest something much sweeter, honeyed and almost candied in contrast to the regular Auslese; the fruit seems riper and more intense here, more peachy with tinges of marzipan and lemon candy around it, and there's such complexity with endless layers of fruit, honey, flowers and mature smoky, creamy and burnished flavour elements. The balance and finesse here are absolutely stunning, and even though it's much riper than the regular Auslese, it still retails that sense of sheer drinkability that makes these wines so thrilling and compelling.
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From magnum. If I recall correctly, Klaus Peter says he made this while at Geisenheim. It's rich and powerful in that Rheingau way, there's a sense of solidity and chewiness to the fruit here, opulent honeyed, floral and smoky accents to the fruit and bright acids that keep it lively and nicely balanced despite its size. Really nice.
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Off the charts amazing. I don't know where to begin to describe this. Cloudy orange-gold in the glass, with one of the most complex, layered and hypnotic aromas I've ever smelled in a wine. This has it all - layers of fruit, spice, honey, florality, minerality, and it'd be impossible to catalog the hundred different flavours in here. It's intensely sweet but so shockingly elegant and light on its feet, with piercing acidity keeping it so precise, focused and that magic Prüm lightness of touch again making it so absurdly easy to drink. It's an intense, layered dessert wine with all the elegance and sheer drinkability of the '81 Kabinett that this dinner started with, and the length is just absurd - it just resonates on and on for minutes after each sip. One of the greatest wines I've ever experienced in my life; wow would be an understatement.
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1981 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 95 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
The sense of weightlessness and the delicate touch here are hard to describe. Elegant would be an understatement; this just seems to float on the palate with gentle Mosel fruit, lemon cream, mature smoky notes and higher toned herbal elements all coming together harmoniously, and conveyed with such precision and focus. The presence and length here are remarkable - this is a wine that stays with you long after each sip. Truly amazing Kabinett.
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