Impromptu lunch – 96 Salon, 02 Monfortino, 02 Jayer Gilles Echezeaux and etc.

I got an invitation for an impromptu lunch. My generous friend sourced a 4.5 oz white truffle. We had a number of great dishes with copious amount of white truffles. It lasted four wonderful hours.

• 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 98 Points

  France, Champagne

  Another great showing of this monumental Champagne. This particular bottle displays perfect precision with great mineral expression and piercing acidity. Yellow fruit driven noses, citrus, lime, quite floral, a hint of honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, sweet and dense palate, lovely mineral note and piercing acidity. This particular bottle is expressive yet still extremely youthful. Still long life ahead.

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• 1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Splash decanted, seems a bit more masculine and austere than the last bottle opened only three days prior. Sweet dry red fruits, licorice, anise, tar, leather, soy and mineral. Masculine, silky and cool with nicely integrated tannins. This is still youthful but the nose is predominantly tertiary. Masculine overall impression. This is a classic Barolo with strong presence of mineral, iron and tar Based on the last two bottles, I highly recommend.

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• 2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 98 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  My first experience with this monumental wine. I had no idea what to expect. Surprisingly opaque for a Monfortino. Intense sweet dark fruits, black cherries, dried blackberries, roasted meat, rose, tar, basking spices and surprisingly strong note of balsamico. Excellent concentration, extremely sweet intense fruit expression, dense yet silky, bright acidity, sweet tannins and long finish. I was surprised by the intense sweet fruits and incredible concentration. There is a hint of VA expressed as strong Balsamic note. For me, this adds lovely sweetness and intensifies the fruit expression. This is a monumental wine with a long life ahead.

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• 1952 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Apparently one of Roberto’s favorite Monfortinos. Unfortunately the color of cognac. VA driven nose with a hint of nail polish. The palate is sweet and a little better than the nose. Based on my experiences, Monfortinos seem to reach the peak at between 25 to 40 years. Unless one strongly prefers the iron and autumn notes, the current price of the pre 70s Monfortinos make them very poor QPR.

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• 2002 Domaine Robert Jayer-Gilles Echezeaux du Dessus 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  After opening not so great showing of the 85 and the 90, I decided to try the 02. Expressive and enticing nose displaying lovely fresh blue fruits, violet, sappy, sesame and noticeable stems that adds complexity. Excellent concentration, sweet sappy palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and lovely long finish. For me Echezeaux is an easy to approach/understand GC that is perhaps not terribly complex but complex enough with lovely sappy and floral notes. This has reached the first stage of prime drinking window, not yet showing much sous bois and tertiary but nice displaying of sappy fruits and beautiful floral notes. I highly recommend.

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