Kelly’s visit – Domestic Cabs, a mini vertical of Harlan

Kelly emailed that he will be in town for a business meeting and may stay overnight for a wine gathering. Five of us got together with the domestic cab theme. I didn’t do a good job coordinating the wines and we ended up with two bottles of the 04 Harlan, great generosities and embarrassment of riches. The grill room at Capella is the spot for most of our wine dinners, very solid cooking and exceptional wine service. We typically order a la carte. The chef Jakob Esko came out to greet us and asked if we had any special requests. The answer was yes please. He prepared a four course meal which was by far the best meal we had at the restaurant. The second course of foie gras cream and duck confit was a memorable dish, the main course of bison loin was also exceptional. All the wines showed very well and complemented the dishes beautifully.

• 2009 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Pop and pour, as Kelly commented a bit tight and coiled and showing the typical notes of MdT, ie very mineral and saline. Initially nose displays limestone, matchstick, saline and beautiful white flower notes. With air, still remaining very mineral and saline, also adding honey and citrus. The palate shows great tension and precision. Kelly and I discussed as how consistent and reliable Ravenau is. Perhaps it may not be as complex and dense as the top 1er crus Meursault and Montrachets but just to chill and enjoy, it is hard to beat the 1er crus from Raveneau. Just so pleasurable to drink. Also goes so well with food. I highly recommend.

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• 1996 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz Rosé 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  Very vinous nose of pinot noir, sweet, smoke, a hint of crackerjack and limestone. Delicate, round and warm palate impression, fine mousse, good mineral presence and lovely seamless finish. A beautiful refine rose that is drinking beautifully.

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• 2000 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Fully mature and slightly beyond the peak but not premoxed. Butter scotch, sweet ripe yellow and red fruits, apricot and mineral. Medium concentration, slightly lacking the mid-palate. Enjoyable but need to be drunk up.

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• 2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Still quite primary but very promising. White fruits, pear and white peach, white flowers, acacia, saline, lanoline, acacia and mineral. Exceptional concentration, dense and fat, mineral and long finish. Although dense, this has the strong signature of Chevalier Montrachet, ie concentrated yet showing precision and tension. Quite enjoyable already but a long life ahead.

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• 1991 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Expressive nose that closely resembles a ripe vintage left bank Bordeaux, cassis, green pepper, graphite, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, mineral, a hint of vegetal palate impression, dust and still noticeable tannins. This particular bottle is a bit rustic and I am not sure if this is typical. Still quite youthful and will gain more tertiary note with further cellaring. A great contrast to the 97 Pahlmeyer proprietor red.

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• 1997 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red 97 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  If you like a big cult cab with noticeable coconut note, this is the wine for you. Expressive nose of cassis, red fruits, a hint of cherry, coconut, vanilla, butter and caramel. Exceptional concentration, sweet jammy red fruit driven palate impression, mineral, chewy yet extremely silky and fully integrated soft and sweet tannins. This is all about hedonism and decadence. Barry mentioned a hint of la la and I agree. This is like a voluptuous slightly big bone young girl in early twenties, quite curvy, big bosoms and tight butts and thighs.

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We had a brief discussion on whether Harlan is worth the money. Harlan estates as shown this evening had strong unique signature, very ripe yet fresh with wonderful silky texture. Overall the consensus was that it is not, especially if you are sensitive to VA.

• 2001 Harlan Estate 97 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Whenever there is a hint of VA, the fruit expression for me is red and this is no exception. A hint of VA, red fruits, cherry liquor, framboises, licorice, coconut, grilled meat, milk coffee and exotic spices. Exceptional concentration, chewy, intense sweet ripe fruit driven palate impression yet still maintains the freshness which I find in Harlan and Schrader, round, warm, silky, bright acidity and nicely integrated tannins. This is a big scale ripe yet fresh fruit driven Harlan with a hint of VA. For my personal preference, a hint of VA is not bothersome but others may feel differently.

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• 2004 Harlan Estate 98 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Expressive yet not overstated nose displaying blueberry, blueberry jam, cassis, fruitcake, coffee and graphite. Big scale, exceptional concentration, very ripe blue fruit driven palate expression and noticeable but sweet tannins. Although this is very ripe, the blue fruit expression gives distinct cabernet/Bordeaux blend note. Very impressive.

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• 2005 Harlan Estate 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Another expressive nose displaying black fruits with a hint of blue, cassis, fresh blackberries, green pepper, graphite, earth and menthol Excellent concentration but a bit rustic palate impression. Despite being very ripe, there is a hint of green note that causes the wine to be not terribly harmonious. Also the palate is a bit rustic. Perhaps it will require sometime to integrate the tannins and the green note.

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• 1992 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Marc de Bourgogne 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Marc de Bourgogne

  Not a big brandy drinker. I think Barry mentioned that Aubert told him that this was all Romanee Conti must. Very expressive, fruity and floral. My reference Brandy/cognac is Tesseron 29 and as expected from a relatively young brandy, this is a bit sharper in the nose and in the palate. Nevertheless it was great to experience this rare brandy thanks goes to Barry for the generous contribution.

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Another five hour dinner that went so fast. Great wines with great fellows.