Inexpensive Burgundy-Goisot, Renaud, Ballorin

• 2012 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne-Aligoté Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté

  Lime and herbs on the nose. Medium weight, fresh with good acidity, bitter, citric finish.

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• 2012 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Saint-Bris

  France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Saint-Bris

  Light greenish color. Grassy, gooseberry nose. Light grapefruit, jarring, bitter finish. Not very good.

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• 2012 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Light color, green tint. Lime aromas and flavors. Light weight, oyster shell and stone. As with all 3 of these wines, a distinctly unappealing bitterness at the end.

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• 2013 Pascal & Mireille Renaud Mâcon-Charnay

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Charnay

  Yellow. Light citrus. Ripe front end with nice texture but then a very lean, mineral finish. Atypical for Macon.

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• 2013 Pascal & Mireille Renaud Mâcon-Solutre

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Solutre

  Yellow. Again, very lean and hard to get at any fruit. More Chablis than Macon. Odd and unsatisfying.

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• 2013 Pascal & Mireille Renaud Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Light yellow. Flowers and herbs. Lean, almost Sauvignon-like, bitter, short finish. I would never have pegged it as a Pouilly Fuisse. Very strange set of wines from this producer.

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• 2011 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Yellow. Toasty oak nose. Round attack marred by some sulfur, but beyond this, all wood all the time. Cannot really unearth any fruit or Chassagne character. Hideous.

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• 2012 Domaine Ballorin Bourgogne Le Bon

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Medium ruby center. Briary anise nose. Light bodied. Core of simple black fruit. Not so bon.

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• 2012 Domaine Ballorin Côte de Nuits Villages Le Village

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

  Light ruby. Funk on the nose. Light, pleasant red fruit, sharp acidity and some soil. Better than the Bourgogne but not by much.

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• 2012 Domaine Ballorin Marsannay Les Echezots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Light color. Floral. Lighter weight, thin feel. Black/red fruit, jagged finish. No.

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• 2012 Domaine Ballorin Marsannay Clos du Roy

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Pale transparent center. Some sulfur stunts the aromatics. Lean and tannic but more to it than the Echezots. Still, hardly worth it.

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• 2012 Domaine Ballorin Nuits St. Georges Les Damodes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  Moderately deep ruby. Bigger and more textural than any of the others. Rather lush entry with a bit of confected, well constituted black fruit. Licorice, strong acidity, good soil, tannic finish. The only Ballorin wine I liked today. Good Nuits typicity.

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• 1998 Nicolas Potel Volnay 1er Cru Pitures

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Tawny center, very light edge. Odd mixture of stalkiness and artificial candied quality; I wonder if this was chaptalized. Big for Volnay, brooding, rustic and tannic. Unattractive and more in the Pommard than Volnay mold.

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Unfortunately, with these wines, you got what you paid, which is not much. The only wine that I can recommend with any enthusiasm is the Ballorin Nuits Damode, a good but not great example.