Highway to the D'Anger(ville) Zone

L'Apicio
Tasted Monday, September 29, 2014 by coremill with 547 views

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

  • 2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 86 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Pure, cool red fruit, but overwhelmed by high-char oak that turns smokey and increasingly hammy and reductive with air. Dense and classy texture but the oak tannins make their presence felt. If you are sensitive to oak, avoid

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  • 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Sweet, expansive red strawberry fruit. Soft and rich, high acid, good concentration. This is nice and not shut down, but the extract is oddly soft and plump and lacks the streamlined silky precision I would hope for in Chambolle. Perhaps it will come together with more age.

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  • 2010 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    The nose shows pretty dark fruit with lots of foresty and floral notes, the whole cluster here is extremely prominent. This has that airy and elegant palate that is the good side of whole cluster, with some creamy but well-integrated oak and a lovely silky texture. Shows the best side of the vintage with the 2010 ripeness + acid, this is a step above the 08s on the table but extremely stemmy. The quality is undeniable though and I'd love to come back to this in 15 years to see how everything has come together. Reminds me a fair bit of one of the less-ripe Rhys wines, actually.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Clean, ripe, gorgeous nose of of dark cherries and extremely prominent molten rock, with a minty herbal edge. Round and juicy but dense and sappy with that great Taillepieds molten undercurrent leading to a structured stony finish. Drinking beautifully now but with plenty of material to age, this is lovely and suffers only by comparison with the 05, which makes it seem a touch insubstantial.

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  • 2006 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    I think this shows some GMT, as it seems dirty and funky. Even if not, it's not that good -- muted, backward, extremely tannic and hard as nails. Easily the worst wine of the evening.

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  • 2005 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Noticeably darker, richer color than the other Angervilles in this flight. Perfecly ripe nose of red cherries and dark berries. Incredibly dense and concentrated but still elegant and streamlined, there is a ton of structured tannin here but the tannins are ripe and refined, with a touch of stoniness on the back end. This is awesome with food, which cuts the structure and allows the fruit to shine through. Amazingly long finish. Surprisingly drinkable now with food, but this is so concentrated and structured that it will easily last decades. Magnificent.

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 1990 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Very 1990 with its roasted overripe black fruit and touch of VA. Some raspy drying tannins but otherwise quite elegant with a nice stony character. Roasted/overripe fruit finish. This very much matches the vintage character and how much you like it will depend on how you feel about the vintage.

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  • 2009 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Super ripe and creamy for Burgundy, with a hint of whole cluster spice, perhaps just a touch overripe/bitter. It's still airy and quite Volnay despite being very concentrated with rather slick extract, as the acid is excellent and the finish is long. Very good but it's a touch 09/New Worldy for my taste. I actually prefer the 2007 version of this wine I've had on a couple of other occasions.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

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