L'Apicio
Tasted Monday, September 29, 2014 by coremill with 547 views
Clean, ripe, gorgeous nose of of dark cherries and extremely prominent molten rock, with a minty herbal edge. Round and juicy but dense and sappy with that great Taillepieds molten undercurrent leading to a structured stony finish. Drinking beautifully now but with plenty of material to age, this is lovely and suffers only by comparison with the 05, which makes it seem a touch insubstantial.
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I think this shows some GMT, as it seems dirty and funky. Even if not, it's not that good -- muted, backward, extremely tannic and hard as nails. Easily the worst wine of the evening.
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Noticeably darker, richer color than the other Angervilles in this flight. Perfecly ripe nose of red cherries and dark berries. Incredibly dense and concentrated but still elegant and streamlined, there is a ton of structured tannin here but the tannins are ripe and refined, with a touch of stoniness on the back end. This is awesome with food, which cuts the structure and allows the fruit to shine through. Amazingly long finish. Surprisingly drinkable now with food, but this is so concentrated and structured that it will easily last decades. Magnificent.
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Very 1990 with its roasted overripe black fruit and touch of VA. Some raspy drying tannins but otherwise quite elegant with a nice stony character. Roasted/overripe fruit finish. This very much matches the vintage character and how much you like it will depend on how you feel about the vintage.
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Super ripe and creamy for Burgundy, with a hint of whole cluster spice, perhaps just a touch overripe/bitter. It's still airy and quite Volnay despite being very concentrated with rather slick extract, as the acid is excellent and the finish is long. Very good but it's a touch 09/New Worldy for my taste. I actually prefer the 2007 version of this wine I've had on a couple of other occasions.
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The nose is dark and irony and meaty and pommardy, but the black cherry fruit is also a touch sweet and reminds me of root beer. Structured and tannic, but the root beer flavor shows up on the palate as well, although the acidity balances out the sweetness. Not quite sure what to make of this, it's a bit sweet but also very structured and high acid. Needs time.
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Fleshy sweet red cherry fruit on the nose with lots of creamy vanilla oak. This is nice but a bit diffuse and oaky. Better with some air, when it picks up some meaty nuances, but you have to like oak to like this. Not my style of Burgundy.
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2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 86 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Pure, cool red fruit, but overwhelmed by high-char oak that turns smokey and increasingly hammy and reductive with air. Dense and classy texture but the oak tannins make their presence felt. If you are sensitive to oak, avoid
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2008 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Sweet, expansive red strawberry fruit. Soft and rich, high acid, good concentration. This is nice and not shut down, but the extract is oddly soft and plump and lacks the streamlined silky precision I would hope for in Chambolle. Perhaps it will come together with more age.
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2010 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
The nose shows pretty dark fruit with lots of foresty and floral notes, the whole cluster here is extremely prominent. This has that airy and elegant palate that is the good side of whole cluster, with some creamy but well-integrated oak and a lovely silky texture. Shows the best side of the vintage with the 2010 ripeness + acid, this is a step above the 08s on the table but extremely stemmy. The quality is undeniable though and I'd love to come back to this in 15 years to see how everything has come together. Reminds me a fair bit of one of the less-ripe Rhys wines, actually.
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