Flatiron Wine & Spirits Dinner

This dinner was organized by Jeff Patten and Josh Cohen of Flatiron Wines & Spirits (www.flatiron-wines.com). The theme was "mature Italian"—2001 or older. Dinner was held at In Vino (www.invino-ny.com), which I recommend highly. Everyone brought bottles from their own collection.

The plan was to start with a bottle of Champagne (always the exception to the rule), but it wasn't chilled, so we dove right into the Barolo and Barbaresco.

• 1996 Prunotto Barolo Bussia

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From 1.5L. Double-decanted some period of time before serving. At first I found this to be quite closed, but within a few minutes it really opened up to be a wonderful expression of a Barolo just starting to come of age. Classic profile of mint, truffles, rose petals, cherries. Some hints of dark chocolate. Nicely resolved tannins, still a fair bit of acid but nothing that distracts from the rest of the wine. In a great place but is only going to get better. Rated 2 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 1984 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Double-decanted an hour prior to serving. An absolutely disgusting amount of sediment, as if three whole grapes had been left to disintegrate in the bottle. I wasn't expecting much from this—a 30-year old Barbaresco from a poor vintage—but it was stellar, proving once again that outstanding producers can do great things in subpar vintages. Near the end of its life, it had great finesse and softness, with smokey, chalky undertones and just enough fruit. Rated 2 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 1978 Camerano Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  What a thrill to be able to drink 1978 Barolo, one of the most highly-regarded yet impenetrable vintages of all time. This bottle was just starting to come around and drank like a youngster that's just starting to show off the goods. Lush red cherry fruit with the slightest hints of secondary aromas, including mushrooms, damp earth, and anise. If I had a bottle in my cellar (which, sadly, I do not), I'd leave it be for at least another five years. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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Because even though it wasn't mature or Italian, it was welcomed by all.

• 2008 Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  After three Nebbiolos and with Sangioveses lurking around the corner, I almost certainly didn't give this the attention it required. A fuller and rounder style of méthode champenoise than I usually gravitate towards. More gold than yellow in color, suggesting the richness of the aromas and the flavors within. Almost compact in a way, with the suggestion of much more to come given a little more time. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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Lots of love for the 1999 vintage, plus a mini La Torre Brunello vertical.

• 1999 Azienda Agricola La Torre Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Popped and poured. At first smell and taste, this was everything I'd want a great Brunello to be: rich black cherry fruit with notes of sandalwood, dried leaves, and vanilla hints. Nice floral elements—a more feminine than masculine style overall. After an hour in the glass, however, this shut down almost completely. My feeling is this needs more time in bottle and will be at its peak in another 4-5 years, at which time it might warrant a higher rating. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 1999 Podere le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) Chianti Classico Le Trame

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  After my last experience with this wine, I was determined to take a different approach, just in case my handling had been the reason for its lackluster performance. Opened only shortly before serving and didn't decant. Thankfully, this bottle was stellar and one of the stars of the night. Delicious red and black fruits, cedar, and violets. In the mouth, none of the drying reported with the last bottle. Fantastic acid and balance. This has years ahead of it. Rated 2 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 1995 Azienda Agricola La Torre Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Double-decanted three hours prior to serving. Simply outstanding in every way. The bouquet: unmistakable Sangiovese with an elegance rarely seen in Brunello. The palate: expansive and rich, touching every part of the mouth, yet with a lightness and acidity that comes together perfectly. And could it be any better than now, paired with a pappardelle bolognese? Even the Burgundy freaks tipped their caps. Drink now and over the next few years. Rated 3 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 1999 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  An outstanding bottle of wine. Riper and more powerful than the 1997, which I've had recently, and not quite as refined as the 2001, also consumed recently. I agree with people here and elsewhere who've suggested this will be a shorter-lived, although still stunning, Le Pergole Torte. The lushness and directness of the wine right now is irresistible. I doubt it will improve much, although it should maintain its current level for years. Rated 3 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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One more Barolo for the road. Because we were out of juice...

• 1970 Oddero Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  I admit to suffering some palate fatigue at this point in the night—perhaps some brain fatigue, too—but what I remember thinking is: Oddero doesn't make them like this anymore. Very traditional, almost regal. Light in color, delicate on the nose, and spry on the palate. Almost entirely in the tertiary aromas and flavors—tar, coffee, earth, wilted roses—and I suspect it's seen better days. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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The night ended with a selection of Madeira, for which I won't attempt tasting notes. But rest assured, they were delicious.

Writing this two days later, I'm still amazed that pretty much all the wines were firing on all cylinders—we couldn't have had better luck.