Four 2012 Mugniers

An unusual opportunity to taste through part of this hard to find range, including both colors of Clos de la Marechale.

• 2012 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Light yellow. Fresh apple and orchard fruit. Medium to lighter weight, not viscous at all. Direct fruit, little wood evident, adequate acidity, good length. Very tasty. I don't think I've had this cuvee before, and the weight and character of the fruit makes me wonder if this has some Pinot Blanc in the blend.

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• 2012 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Clear medium red. Red fruit aromatics. Medium bodied, supple, excellent blossoming of black cherry fruit and a smidgeon of anise. Very smooth, approachable, and unobtrusive tannins. Surprisingly enjoyable now, but I never would have called this as a Nuits given its elegance and texture. I suppose that happens when a Chambolle winemaker makes wine from this terroir.

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• 2012 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Light red (a tone lighter than the Nuits). Faint floral tones. Tart red and black fruit in a lightweight package infused with a fine coating of soil. Unusual fishy component in the mid-palate. Slightly briary finish, again average acidity. Compared to outperforming vintages of this cuvee such as 2002, I was not moved by this and actually preferred the Nuits.

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• 2012 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Medium ruby-the deepest color of the 3 reds. Some perfume and game that the others don't possess. Light weight but more ample power and beautiful, expansive inner mouth aromatics which repeat the element of gaminess. Here the fruit is all black and the tannins more firmer. Still, this is pretty suave and civilized for a young Bonnes Mares even with its Morey character. The most striking thing about it was its cling and persistence-extremely long aftertaste for a wine that has such a light attack. At least excellent, but I'm not sure that it's really outstanding in that flesh and sap seem to come up a bit short.

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Interesting, well balanced if not profound white, and lovely, stylish but variable reds (although admittedly, no Fuees, Amoureuses, or Musigny on display).