Tasting 2012 Geantet-Pansiots at the Domaine

With friends, I visited several Burgundy houses in June 2014, including Geantet-Pansiot. I am gradually adding my notes to CellarTracker, as time permits. These tasting notes were prepared from notes Andrew and I took at the visit.

The Domaine was founded in 1954 by Edmond Geantet and his wife Bernadette Pansiot. Vincent Pansiot joined his father in 1977 and has been in charge since 1989, assisted by his children Fabien and Emelie. We are grateful to Vincent Pansiot for generously taking us through a tasting of a range of his 2012 wines in bottle.

Vincent told us that there are changes in winemaking practice planned for the Domaine, with vinification to take place in wooden foudres and some pulling back on the use of oak in élevage. Vincent said that Geantet-Pansiot had also pulled back on extraction recently. He said that if you have ripe berries you don't need to extract.

Volumes were way down for 2012 but Vincent was happy with his 2012s and particularly the ripe berries they ultimately got. He mentioned his leaf plucking and the rigorous sorting done on the sorting table.

We tasted ...

• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  (1/9/2015)

  Fresh, sweet red raspberry and other fruit aromas and a fruit-driven palate. Brightly flavoured with a fairly sweet entry to the palate. The structural components are light on their feet and supple, finishing on fine acids. An attractive, fairly straightforward wine.

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay Les Champs Perdrix

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  (1/9/2015)

  From vines in the Combe de Fixin. Vincent described the soil at the site as compressed oyster shells. Chalky underbrush savoury notes and red fruit on the nose and fresh fruit flavours that are in balance with light tannins, crisp acidity and saline minerality. Below medium weight. A pleasing wine for early consumption (the next 3-4 years).

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  (1/9/2015)

  From 65+ year old vines from Brochon and Gevrey. Darker lifted fruit aromas and savoury underbrush on the nose – a step-up in fruit weight compared to the first two wines. Velvety mouth-feel with heavier tannins, greater concentration and juicy fruit on the mid palate indicating potential for development with age.

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin en Champs

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  (1/10/2015)

  From 110 year old vines near Goulots. Vincent described the climat as 'One of the best terroirs in Gevrey'. Sappy, cherry fruit aromas on the nose. Almost licquer-like on bouquet. Lovely fruit flavours on entry with fine tannins and a silky mouth feel. Good concentration. Finishes dry with a brambly bitterness that is slightly out of place at this stage in development. This is a fine Villages wine that will develop nicely over the next 10 years.

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  (1/10/2015)

  Vincent described this wine as being from 'fabulous terroir' because it lies due South and he likes the influence of the Combe. He said it is an earlier picking vineyard. Nose slightly reticent with plummy fruits and raspberries. Brambly, sous bois flavours with the fruit less evident at this stage. Good matière and salinity on the finish. A cooler profile with good acidity. An intellectual wine with potential to develop further interest with age.

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  (1/10/2015)

  I think of the Charmes as the Domaine's standard bearer. From vines planted in 1947. Vincent described the site as 'true Charmes', next to Griotte, with limestone soils. Vincent said that the wine was picked early to retain acidity. Alcohol at 13.5% and no chaptalisation. Darker in colour than the preceding wines. A lovely nose. Rich plum and berry fruit aromas, with chalk and minerals. A real sense of cherry pit. In the mouth, a soft, silky midpalate with great weight and fine tannins all in equilibrium. The flavour profile is red fruits with minerals and chalk. Good acidity. Quite elegant. A long finish on typical Gevrey savoury flavours. This is obviously very primary and has great cellaring potential.

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• 2012 Geantet-Pansiot Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  (1/10/2015)

  Aromatically explosive! Ripe fruit aromas with dusty underbrush notes and hints of spice, even anise. Great power in the midpalate, yet with elegance and finesse; the structural components matched by the huge fruit weight. A long finish inflected with spice. Superb! Yet another of several great 2012 Bonnes Mares we have tasted on this trip.

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