La Paulée Intermezzo-Riesling and Burgundy Dinner

The Modern, New York
Tasted Friday, February 27, 2015 by drwine2001 with 298 views

Flight 1 - Whites (3 Notes)

  • 1975 Louis Sipp Riesling Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Freakishly light yellow. Lemon joined by minimal petrol for a wine of this age. Light weight, tart citrus, searing acidity, green herbs. Absolutely miraculous that this is so young at age forty. The acidity must have been unbearable early on since it is still blazing and enamel-eroding now. Fruit seekers need not apply.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1978 Louis Sipp Riesling Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Deep yellow with some browning. Some mild oxidative notes which stayed in check, brief blast of ripe peach, faint botrytis, bigger frame and glossier than the immortal 1975, and interesting vegetal tones. This too had tremendous acidity, but it was covered up more by the flesh of the wine. Tremendously interesting and very good, but I preferred the lean power of the older wine. I would have guessed that this was the senior citizen.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1989 Rudolf Kramp Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Another oddity from the list at The Modern. Light yellow. Some secondary high tones and a strong scent of passion fruit. Just off dry, some texture and flesh. Develops lovely white flowers and ends with a ton of slate. A classic old time Spatlese; now it is easy to find richer Kabinetts.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Flight 2 - Reds (3 Notes)

  • 1999 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Magnificent deep ruby. Mind blowing aroma of celestial, ripe cherry liqueur. After a while, the typical Griotte tanginess appears along with light green elements. Superb, pure, mouthcoating red fruit, and beautiful acidity. This begins lush and almost syrupy but the relaxes and becomes more lacy. Fantastic wine that is at the front end of a long, glorious drinking period.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1995 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Lighter ruby. Tart red fruit full of soil, then over time a wafting florality. Lean, uncompromising, and mineral with acids that penetrate the palate. This lost its aggressiveness and blossomed beautifully unlike the last bottle I had. A stark contrast to the opulence of the Ponsot before it but equally great in its own idiom. Only danger here is the fruit drying; monitor closely, but outstanding now.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1995 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Sound medium ruby, minimal fading. Prominent bacon and blue fruit. Medium weight, ripe fruit and spice joined by a hint of green. I couldn't be happier with how this drank. It has followed an upward trajectory over the past 7 years, and I can't wait to try my one last bottle in a couple of years. Triumph of material over the oaky Groffier vinification.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Closing

Superb food and gracious wine service in this spectacular setting. The Riesling rarities on the list are definitely worth a look if you are in the vicinity. The reds were from our cellars and turned out to be young pups compared to the venerably aged whites!

×
×