Burgundy & Birds

il Buco
Tasted Thursday, February 26, 2015 by paul195 with 507 views

Introduction

This dinner was arranged by BWE to celebrate Burgundy Week.

Flight 1 - Openers (2 Notes)

Pinzimonio - assorted raw vegetables, anchovy dressing

  • 1995 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Golden color, nose filled with fresh white fruits, brioche and a touch of citrus. Palate is filled with fresh fruits and nice mineral notes, good acidity and balance, fine bubbles and a long refreshing finish. Drinking really well, seems to have some upside as this fully framed beauty ages

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  • 2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Light yellow color, nose was remarkably forward and open, lots of fat fruit here. Youthful but very approachable, fruit is quite primary, lovely texture decent acidity, good size and balance. Nice lingering finish. Very nice now but should get only better with another 5 years of patience

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Flight 2 - Lafon Meursaults "villages" (2 Notes)

Rillettes d'Anatra - Confit duck leg, cereal bread dentiles

  • 1989 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Remarkably youthful corn yellow center, needed a good fifteen minutes to come around in the nose. The fruit flavors were fully evolved into dried golden fruit along with a mushroom and honey, but the acidity was still so bright and refreshing it's hard to believe this 26 year old was just the "village" bottling. The wine of the night for many.

    Sadly this is my last of the village bottling, its fun to add that I had provided the bottle at a dinner ten years ago that John Kapon noted here in CT.

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  • 2004 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Désirée 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Note by Tim Farrell of BWe

    The wine, which was quite young with lots of primary yellow fruit flavors, also exhibited a touch of the much mentioned 2004 "green-ness" that, while often overbearing and disruptive in the vintage's reds, lends a lean edge and touch of spice to the mix. Lovely with duck rillettes.

    Tasted alongside a 1989 Lafon Meursault which was just better in every way, see note

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Flight 3 - 1999 Nuits St George Vaucrains (2 Notes)

Pappardelle - house made egg ribbon pasta ribbons, game bird sumo, yellow-foot mushrooms pecarino Ginepro

  • 1999 Dominique Laurent Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    By Tim Farrell of BWE

    Both wines in the flight seemed a bit shut down, most due to the overwhelming tannins of both. Yes, it's a gruff, rustic, cru, but this one seemed particularly disjointed. The body was huge and the fruit was dark, but the aromas gave off pruney, slightly over the hill notes. Maybe a little off?

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  • 1999 Maison Alex Gambal Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    By Tim Farrell of BWE

    Much more elegant than the Laurent, but still showing some roughness around the edges. Much brighter red fruit here, with more lift and freshness. A whiff of barnyard, but the fruit didn't seem to be as past its prime as the other, and will hopefully blossom beautifully in another 5-8 years.

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Flight 4 - Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux (2 Notes)

Arrosto di Fagiano, Piccioncino, e Pernice - roasted pheasant, squab and partridge with sun-chokes black walnut vinagrette

  • 1983 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

    By TIm Farrell of BWE

    Like discovering a carton of raspberries in your dad's sock drawer, perched on top of a stack of Playboys from the same vintage. Took a good 25 minutes open up in any way, and a few less patient in the group were convinced it was corked. The old adage "if it's actually corked, then it will get worse, not better" proved true as the last few sips in Paul's glass after an hour of swirling around were the most memorable gulps of the entire evening.

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  • 2005 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

    By Tim Farrell

    A sensational wine. Ripe, almost New World-type fruit, but with a lean profile and wonderful texture through the mid-palate. A fabulous example that not all 2005s are stupid right now.

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Flight 5 - Something Sweet (1 Note)

Cheese, biscotti…...

  • 1986 Château de Fargues 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Light golden color, a little tight to start but the nose opened up after 30 minutes with apricot, peaches, creme brûlée and butterscotch. Luscious texture, rich and complex with layers of sweet yellow fruits. Sufficient acidity to balance the sweet, rich aspects of this wine. Good balance and a long captivating finish. A fine end to a fine meal

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